Krag Collectors Association Forum

'Hammer', nice cartridge box! The McKeever cartridge boxes for .45-70 cartridge are usually dyed 'black' and date back to the 1880s. They were used in warfare and garrison duty. They were reinforced with brass fittings. The boxes gave way to Prairie belts and Mills belts. The .30-40 McKeever boxes u...

Very likely the perpetrator of a string of smash & grabs at Tim Hortons and Dunkin Donuts.

I imagine there was a lot of 'littering', too!

A quick experiment: Today, I put a NOS model 1896 bolt into a model 1899 carbine. It did not rotate fully closed. The underside of the 1896 bolt handle made slight contact, with the stock wood of the model 1899 bolt notch. However, I was surprised the bolt did close far enough that the striker relea...

I've always had good dealings with S&S Firearms. IIRC - The company's founder(s) had a connection, through marriage, to the Bannerman family. Back in 1968 to 1976, when I went to CW shoots at the North-South Skirmish Association range at Winchester, Virginia, S&S Firearms had a large booth i...

Very nice Tom, the 'Parkhurst Clips' beautifully accessorize your carbine. Thanks for sharing!

(Any thoughts, about my theory, that the 'hole' in your stock's bolt-notch provided clearance for a model 1896 bolt-handle)?

Oh, you were referring to the 'headless' cocking-piece on Tom's Parkhurst carbine.

Bill: If you are referring to the 'flat area', on the bottom of the bolt handle, the bolt with the long 'flat' is an 1898 bolt. The shorter 'flat' is a feature of model 1896 and 1892 bolts. The model 1898 receiver had some simplification in shape and machining steps. The receiver and stock changes (...

I am noticing 'impression marks' in the wood (arrows). I suspect a model 1896 bolt was being used with your 'Parkhurst' carbine, at some time.

The drilled hole in the stock 'notch' may have been an attempt to achieve some wood-clearance for an incorrect model 1896 bolt-handle?

You did not mention the 'crack' in the plate at the start of this thread.

The plot thickens .... that guide lip will ultimately fail.

You will have to reuse the current rivet or make one.

POHO - I simply reset the original rivet, so that the 'guide-lip' plate was locked securely in place.
There was no need to disassemble anything.

IMO - You are making something simple, more complicated than it needs to be.
You probably already fixed it!