1923 Norwegian Krag

[butlersrangers]

FWIW - I once had a Greek model 1903/14 Mannlicher-Schoenauer service rifle in 6.5 X 54 mm.
The rifle's bore was very dark and rough.
The rifling could no longer stabilize 160 grain RN bullets in reloads that duplicated the original military load. My shots were all over the paper and some shots completely missed the target.
However, the same poor rifle barrel could produce one inch (100 yard) groups, with reloads using 139 grain SP spitzer projectiles.

If your bore doesn't look bad, maybe the problem is the 'muzzle-crown' or the stock bedding.

I believe your Norwegian Krag has three stock bolts?
I would try loosening all three bolts and 'wiggling things' so your action is nicely & evenly seated in the stock.
I would then slowly and alternately tighten the two front bolts, until they are very tight. (Make sure these stock-screws are actually 'compressing against wood' and not bottoming in their blind-holes in the receiver).
The rear bolt I would tighten last, until it is just snug.
IMHO - If you tighten the rear bolt too much, it creates tension and levers & lifts the front of the action 'upward' off the bedding.

(Also, not all barrels shoot well when 'free floated'. Some rifles are at their best when the barrel is 'dampened' with a few pounds of upward forearm tip pressure. You can experiment by trying a thin match-book shim at the 'tip').

p.s. Your stock appears to be developing a split or crack in the receiver-tang area. Things were moving or swelling at some point in your rifle's history. This split should be stabilized.

[Woody Roberts]

I generally don’t have good luck free floating barrels that are below .650 at the muzzle. I’ve epoxy bedded the action and installed a pressure point at the forearm tip. This can often lead to wild swings in poi as the barrel heats up. Hence testing needs to be done with steady temperature ( cold barrel).
I’ve found with most guns I can get three and sometimes 4 shots before things start walking.
In my later years I’ve become more of a hunter than a shooter. Where the first bullet lands from a cold barrel at the crack of dawn on a frosty morning is my main concern.

[Woody Roberts]

Does anyone know the barrel thread dimensions on this rifle. Still having trouble getting it to shoot satisfactory. I’ll lap the crown next and then fire lap the barrel. In the meantime I’m looking for a suitable blank or takeoff barrel I can rethread.

[Woody Roberts]

Well I gave up and ordered a blank from Green mtn. Stainless was all they had available in my price range. Got it threaded and contoured on my 1894 Porter machine works lathe. It shoots good now.

[FredC]

I put a stainless barrel on my sporter and the over all look was good. Most of the original finish was worn off the receiver so they almost matched. When you get around to it pictures please.

[Woody Roberts]

[Ned Butts]

Looking good!! Keep the updates coming

[Littlejohn]

Well I gave up and ordered a blank from Green mtn. Stainless was all they had available in my price range. Got it threaded and contoured on my 1894 Porter machine works lathe. It shoots good now.

As a retired machinist, I'd be interested in seeing a photo of your lathe. The Krag looks good, by the way.

[Bernt]

Thats a vey nice Krag. Should be a good shooter with the new barrel.

Here's a norwegian gunsmith that's build some custom Krags. Just use google translate, but beware that google translates Krag as "collar". The norwegian word "Krage" means collar...
https://www.rafdal-vapen.no/customkrag-9075s.html

This is the blog of a gunsmith apprentice that's been practicing on making Krag barrel threads.
http://www.tsbfengineering.com/jorgen/t ... %B8rgensen

Old british custom Krag:
https://www.westleyrichards.com/theexpl ... ine-rifle/