Paint, dirt, and stuck screws - Removal thereof.

[olderthansome]

I have a steel but plate that will not yield up its screws to, so far, penetrating oil, heat, and taps with a small hammer. Any suggestions for what to try next? I want to clean up an 1873 Trapdoor without using abrasives; I only want to remove years of dirt, paint spatter and general scrapes and, what appears to be heat or even some small fire damage to some areas. Most of the screws turn easily, but the rear sight and butt screws are firmly in place.

After I get screws out, the plan will be to soak the metal parts as has been discussed on this site before. Wood plans are still in the future and after I can remove the metal.

[Whig]

A few suggestions. One is to just leave them in place and clean up around them. You can really fight with some of these things and wind up scratching or ruining something you don't want to scratch or ruin.

I have recut the screw head slot deeper with a Dremel tool and file before which gives me much greater "purchase" or grip on the screw head for breaking loose. You definitely need the correct screwdriver for the job. It has to be correct fitting and have a sharp profile so it will hold good.

The penetrating oil may take a couple days to do its job. Keep dumping that on. Sometimes some carefully applied heat can coax the screw loose but be careful with the torch around the wood and the penetrating oil if you try it. This is not highly advised but can help.

If the slot is buggered a little for the counter clockwise turning, one trick is to try to tighten the screw a tiny bit by turning it clock wise just slightly. This can be easier if the clock wise sides of the slot are not buggered up as much. This might allow you to actually break the rust loose then you can unscrew it counter clockwise.

Good luck. Others may have some more suggestions.

[olderthansome]

Thank you for the tips. I've done most of the things you have suggested already except for allowing the time you described. I haven't used penetrating oil in years and I don't even know if I have the right product. I'm using 3 in 1 now, but I think what I used to use was just called Penetrating Oil. I also don't have the best screw driver. My heat source has been only a hair dryer on a modest setting. I'll give the soaking more time and try a hotter setting.

Your suggestion of a Dremel tool is a good one, too. I think I can borrow one and try that. I can also grind the screw driver blade to fit a little better. Thanks again for the suggestions. You've been a help.

[Whig]

Good luck and keep us informed.

[butlersrangers]

'Liquid Wrench', (or 'Kroil' if you have it), will penetrate a lot better.

An electric soldering iron, held on the screw-head, will give you a manageable, local, 'heat source'.

You are probably 'fighting' old hardened grease, swollen wood fibers, and some deformation of the screw-head.

A sharp awl or icepick point neatly cleans the bottom corners of the screwdriver slots, allowing a better/deeper screwdriver fit.

Some screw-head slots are slightly 'dished', preventing a square screwdriver blade-tip from evenly touching bottom.

Radius the blade tip to match.

[Zgun]

My favorite penetrating concoction is 50% power steering fluid and 50% acetone. My personal experience is it works better than any of the commercial market offerings. I keep it in a sealed mason jar so the acetone does not evaporate.

I call it Rust Eater.

Zgun

[Local Boy]

Lord forgive me for posting this...

I've even gone so far as to use an impact screw driver to remove butt plate screws.

No damage to the screws or stock when I've don it... but it sure gets your heart to fluttering when performing the procedure.

Last resort kind of stuff when nothing else works.

[Whig]

That's why it's best to sometimes leave well enough alone.

[olderthansome]

Leaving it alone wasn't an option for this particular rifle, so your suggestion about waiting turned out to be the best solution. After a few days and one light treatment of 13oz Plumb at each compass point, the screw came out "like butta". Now I just need to handle some paint spots and some dirt, and I think I might have a relatively honest, maybe, Indian owned piece. I'm trying to fight the urge to use any stains, although the wood could certainly benefit from some sort of protection.

[butlersrangers]

Pictures will beget feedback.

A cleaning with mineral spirits or turpentine is usually benign.

A 50/50 mix of Linseed Oil and Turpentine is an old and established wood treatment.

I like and use "Howard's Feed & Wax", as a final coat. It gives a pleasant luster.