Split Necks on Old Brass

[Whig]

Just a reminder to inspect cases carefully especially if you ever shoot any vintage ammunition.

These split necks were all culled from a collection of .30-40 Krag cases shot from vintage ammunition that is head stamped W-W Super. I believe that is the old Winchester-Western (Olin) company. These may be from the 40s, just a guess.

But, most vintage ammunition brass is brittle and will develop split necks or, worse, head separation, if you shoot it. I did not have any problems when I shot these in my Krag rifle. They all shot well with no hang fires or duds. But, I am tossing these cases. Most were intact. I probably won't reload them, though. I have enough newer brass that I don't need to take the risk with reloading old stuff that may give me trouble.

I will keep most of my vintage ammo to fill ammo belts with and keep in the neat old boxes. Looks great and safer than shooting it too!

[butlersrangers]

Whig brought up an interesting problem. (I hope, I didn't take his thread off topic).

In my experience, it is not unusual to see unfired commercial ammo from the 1920's and 1930's with 'split necks'.

Whig's ammo does not look that ancient. (Maybe W-W did not properly anneal the case-necks, when it was made)?

Brass does 'age/work harden'. Old ammo case-necks have been maintaining tension on projectiles for a long time.

IMHO & FWIW - Ammo is probably best with fresh ingredients.
Systematically annealing case-necks of fired brass is sound economy.
Rather than sitting on enormous amounts of loaded ammunition, maybe it is better to store components as components, routinely buy components, shoot often, rotate your stock of components and restock, as things are used.

Projectiles have an infinite shelf-life.
Primers last pretty long.
Maybe powder will last longer in 1 pound sealed cans, than in large bulk canisters, that have been opened and used slowly over years.
Empty brass can be stored, un-primed, annealed, sized, trimmed, and then loaded, as needed.

[butlersrangers]

Whig: I don't know how much of the Winchester-Western Ammo you have. Bummer, that it is splitting at the neck.

Here is something you can try for amusement and to possibly salvage the components.

Make some Gallery Practice Ammo.
(It will require an inertia bullet-puller, some .310 or .311 lead round ball, and some Bullseye or other fast powder).

1. Pull the W-W factory bullets. Save the bullets and powder for reuse.

2. Load the W-W primed cases with 2 or 3 grains of Bullseye or other suitable quick propellant (Be very careful to avoid double charges)!
2 grains of Bullseye seems to keep things "sub-sonic". 3 grains is still civilized and may extend the range.

3. Place a lead ball on the 'sized' case-mouth and gently tap the ball with a plastic mallet to seat. If you want, some Alox on a Q-tip can be brushed on the ball edges, after seating.

After firing the "GP" loads, try annealing the case-necks and see if that solves the neck-splitting issue.

I have been tinkering with .30-40 and .30-06 G.P. loads this week for off-hand practice in my Barn.
Before investing in a mold, I bought a box of Hornady .310 cal. lead round balls. (I have 2 pounds of Bullseye, someone gave me, that I had no other use for).

For a backstop, I've been using a grocery-bag full of newspapers. Initial tests have been at 30 feet with carbine length barrels, (Krag - 22" and 1903 - 20"), fired off-hand, single-load only.
(I have been seating the ball, flush with the case mouth, using my reloading press. I gently raise the ram, pressing the ball against a solid 'stop', seating the ball until the case-mouth makes contact. For a 'stop surface' I used a .45 acp Case Flaring Die).

This makes for Fun Practice and a good use for old brass! (Note - Spot your shots as you practice to make sure the ball has cleared the bore. Bullseye leaves a lot of ash in the bore: I run a patch through every 15 rounds or so.