Been thinking... Here hold my beer.

[Culpeper]

what are your thoughts on a strictly linotype alloy bullet driven at an appropriate speed for punching paper at two hundred yards.

Kinda expensive due to the lino but from what I can read in other places lino is the bomb when it comes to punching holes. I have built up a stash of 200 pounds of the virgin lino and have an itch that needs to be scratched.

Maybe it is the red vermuth clouding my thoughts.

[madsenshooter]

That's what all the fellows at a Cast Bullet Association benchrest match that I attended were shooting a few years back. It was working for them! They all had heavy target rifles and small pieces of artillery, I shot my full length Krag with LER scope. Most were shooting heavy 30 caliber bullets and said they had their loads at about the 2000fps level. They were using cases of less capacity than the Krag, and favored Varget as their powder.

[craigster]

I've cast and shot quite a few 311413s using pure lino, works quite well.

[Hamish]

Having only ever shot wheel weight, range scrap, and solder bullets, with the addition of copper bearing babbit for higher velocities, I cannot advise on Lino.

Im not sure if I'm actually missing anything,,,,,,,,,

[madsenshooter]

I've cast and shot quite a few 311413s using pure lino, works quite well.

Can you get anymore velocity out of them, with accuracy? I've shot a couple different models of the Squib bullet. B&M311169 and Henesley's early version that had an extra band above the top lube groove. Couldn't get either going much over 1600fps with any degree of accuracy. The Henesley threw wider patterns as the velocity went up, though I thought it would do better than the B&M. I recently got a newer version of the B&M, there's quite a difference in the bullets. The newer one is more like the 311413, about .020" longer with a slightly different nose profile.

[craigster]

I've gone up to 2000 fps or so, accuracy has been acceptable.

[madsenshooter]

I'll have to do an up the ladder side by side test of these two one day. At around 1450-1550 or so, the older one, the one with the little .305 band ahead of the scraper groove, makes shooting golfballs at 100yds pretty easy. Much faster and the spread gets bigger, even with slower powders and/or harder alloys. Like it has rotational velocity it likes and that's it! Maybe that's why the design got changed over the years! I notice the lube grooves are a bit shallower on the older one. The newer one has .312 bands the older one .314. I remember Phil Sharpe wrote that he got some good accuracy with the 413 up around 2000fps too.

[Baltimoreed]

Ive been casting these 311413s in my shop for the last few days out of half wheel weights and picked up range lead dropped into cold water. Makes a very hard bullet. My mini30 likes them and today I started working on a 300 blkout load with them. My lubrisizer die is .309. Had to run them through a lee .308 sizer to get them to work in the 300.

[madsenshooter]

Hope it works for you in the BLK. They generally have a tight twist that confounds getting higher velocities with the bullet. If you do make it workout, I might just be getting a .300 upper to go along with my 6x45. I have several 30cal molds, only a couple 6mm and I know one of them casts a nose that'll be too small.

[Baltimoreed]

Ive run into a wall with my mixed 223 brass that I made into 300. A majority of the case necks are too thick and Im thinking that my Wilson s/s bbl has a tight chamber too. Brass with necks .010 thick or less seem to work with .308 sized bullets. Ive ordered a Hornady neck trimmer tool from midway, will be here next week probably. Plus the trimmer tool will make the necks a uniform thickness which wouldnt hurt the accuracy. Ideally, how thick should the neck on 300 brass be? 9-10 thousands? This may have been the reason that my upper sat in the safe for so long after I got it and started building loads. Oldtimers disease kicking in. But Ill get it running this time. Ive got a Dillon 550 out in the shop that could be cranking out .300s.