Rehabing a cut-down

U.S. Military Krags
Barnacle59
Posts: 2
Joined: Sun Feb 07, 2021 12:19 pm

Re: Rehabing a cut-down

Post by Barnacle59 »

Thank you so much!! I may have to recut and refit my forend. I think I may have bought the last one Numrich had..

Whig
Posts: 1992
Joined: Sat Sep 24, 2016 12:53 am

Re: Rehabing a cut-down

Post by Whig »

Good luck and go slow to avoid mistakes. Keep us informed with pictures when you can. Many of us have done repairs and restorations on our Krags. If you need help, let us know.

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butlersrangers
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Joined: Wed Oct 07, 2009 11:35 pm
Location: Below the Bridge, Michigan

Re: Rehabing a cut-down

Post by butlersrangers »

'Barnacle' - I just measured three model 1898 Krag rifles with original full length stocks. I used the 'depth gauge' feature of a vernier-caliper, to measure the distance from the front-edge of the front barrel-band to the muzzle crown. (The stock-tip wood should be even with the front edge of the forward band).

The three model 1898 Krags varied in this dimension: 3.137", 3.145", and 3.162 (averaging 3.148").
The difference between the smallest and largest measurement was 25 thousandths of an inch, (less than the thickness of a credit card).

BTW - The model 1898 Krag, that I just put the forearm on, measured 3.182", from front of band to crown.
A model 1896 Krag, that I stretched the forearm on, measures 3.215", from front of the forward band to the muzzle crown.

All five of these Krag rifles properly accept the same original bayonet. The difference between 3.137" and 3.215" is about the thickness of a 'Nickel'.

If your dimension is around 3.150", you should be in good shape.

Hint - The top of a Krag barrel will often have 'rub marks', where the front barrel-band was located. This can be a useful guide.

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S.B.
Posts: 71
Joined: Sun May 04, 2003 6:57 pm

Re: Rehabing a cut-down

Post by S.B. »

From what I can see, your bayonet sure looks to be in better shape than mine.
Steve
The Original Point and Click Interface was a Smith & Wesson

Baltimoreed
Posts: 367
Joined: Fri Feb 05, 2016 11:42 pm

Re: Rehabing a cut-down

Post by Baltimoreed »

Nice work on the stretch. I had to use a scrap .22 stock to semi stretch my school rifle build. Would have been a lot easier with the replacement forend.

larrys
Posts: 37
Joined: Mon Feb 15, 2021 4:01 pm

Re: Rehabing a cut-down

Post by larrys »

Nice work! What stain will you use on the new wood to match the old, if any? Will the entire stock get stripped and restained/finished?
Larry

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butlersrangers
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Joined: Wed Oct 07, 2009 11:35 pm
Location: Below the Bridge, Michigan

Re: Rehabing a cut-down

Post by butlersrangers »

I'm not totally sure if the question was directed to me.

This project is a bit on hold, until I get a new 'Acraglas' kit to complete the 'stretch-joint'.
Like a lot of gun related supplies, glass-bedding kits are currently "out of stock".

FWIW - I will be staining, just the new forearm, to match the original finish on the stock and hand-guard.

I will be using "ZAR" brand - interior oil based wood stain - #124 'Rosewood'. It is a product of United Gilsonite Laboritories and sold at my local 'DoItBest' Hardware store.
I first used it on an interior door and liked the color. I have since used it on some gunstock repairs and thought it kind of caught the reddish hue of the 'logwood' stain used by S.A.

If the color is not quite right, I mix a bit of the rosewood stain and some Laurel Mountain dark walnut stain in a 50/50 mix of linseed oil and turpentine and rub the mixture into the wood.
The results have pleased me, but, I'm just a hobbyist and others likely have a better plan.

larrys
Posts: 37
Joined: Mon Feb 15, 2021 4:01 pm

Re: Rehabing a cut-down

Post by larrys »

Butlersrangers, my question was directed to you. I have had good success using West System Epoxy for glue and glass bedding. I'm a boat guy so always have some around. I mix in West #404 Structural Thickener to the desired consistency (runnier for glue, thicker for glass bedding), and gelcoat pigment to color it to match the wood.
Larry

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Dick Hosmer
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Joined: Sun Nov 20, 2005 4:11 pm

Re: Rehabing a cut-down

Post by Dick Hosmer »

This is in response to Whig's post of 2/7.

It makes sense that the OA barrel length would be (nominally) the same between the flat muzzle and the "high point" of the new crown. Done so, no changes would need to be made to the trim gauging, etc. Just feed the crowning tool until you kiss the old flat surface at the center of the barrel wall.

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