Hi Fred — Nothing is is set in Loctite yet. I have both the S&S screws and the 8-32 screws that need to be cut down. If the screws are indeed “soft”, I was wondering if I should screw them into place once, then remove and then oil blue them with a torch.
I finally have all the parts collected for both rifles — including NOS bolts as BR suggested. I even rounded up another criterion barrel — I was told the CMP will not sell a barrel they don’t install by a few shops, so I went ahead and ordered a second one in from a shop I know — bought the last one.
I’m now in the process of interviewing gun shops and getting quotes for the finish, rebarrel, and remaining wood work on the hand guards. I’m exploring the possibility of case hardening — can you re-case harden a receiver? This case hardening isn’t the color case job, it’s quenched in oil and will have a dark look.
Does the 1898 and 1902 sight use the same base?
Re: Does the 1898 and 1902 sight use the same base?
Last edited by P0H0 on Mon Jan 02, 2023 11:44 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Re: Does the 1898 and 1902 sight use the same base?
It probably does not make much difference in the process on coloring the screw whether you screw it in first or not. I generally quench in oil after color heating screws. My idea was the oil would penetrate micro pores in the surface and give better corrosion resistance. No proof that it does anything. It might stop the color changing from the one you like into something else by quenching.
On the receiver the base material is a very soft low alloy machinery steel. They are case hardened with organic materials all over. The locking lugs did have a cyanide past applied to them on both the bolt and receiver. The cyanide gave deeper penetration of the carbon in those areas for greater hardness and wear resistance. I would be afraid of messing that up with further case hardening. I do not like the idea of polishing and bluing as some of the thin case is being removed in the polishing process. Personal prejudice. Others have polished and had nice looking results. Some one that really knows their stuff might actually improve a Krag receive with case hardening. I see a lot of ways some one of slightly lesser talents could screw something up. I would hate to be holding a Krag that had been made as brittle as glass when the trigger was pulled.
On the receiver the base material is a very soft low alloy machinery steel. They are case hardened with organic materials all over. The locking lugs did have a cyanide past applied to them on both the bolt and receiver. The cyanide gave deeper penetration of the carbon in those areas for greater hardness and wear resistance. I would be afraid of messing that up with further case hardening. I do not like the idea of polishing and bluing as some of the thin case is being removed in the polishing process. Personal prejudice. Others have polished and had nice looking results. Some one that really knows their stuff might actually improve a Krag receive with case hardening. I see a lot of ways some one of slightly lesser talents could screw something up. I would hate to be holding a Krag that had been made as brittle as glass when the trigger was pulled.
Re: Does the 1898 and 1902 sight use the same base?
So, the case hardening option would be sent to one of these three shops below. Important to note that the case hardening is similar to color case hardening but quenched in oil — it’ll have a black look like the original rifles. The barrel and buttplate will be rust blued — other parts nitre blued, and screws fire blued — and a polished bolt.
I watched a training video on case hardening metals to be used as tools — you can ease up the stress in the metal after case hardening by placing back in the furnace at 400 degrees for a bit of time. Also, caught a bit of Larry Potterfield on the subject — always entertaining. About ready to order my furnace to heat metal to 1400 degrees and buy a fire resistant suit .
#1 Turnbull (They cost a fortune, and typically only do pistols and lever action guns — maybe a rolling block. I don’t have my hopes up that they would even touch a Krag. If they do, this restoration will skyrocket in price — but oh so tempting)
#2 Tyler Gun Works (seems to be more affordable option — may just send parts to be finished and complete rifle on my own)
#3 Wyoming Armory
Other option is, CMP Custom Shop bluing the rifles — I just need to ask them if matte or polished most resembles the finish on the Springfield Armory museum Krags. There’s also another shop I’m looking at in North Carolina called Shooters Exchange — they did a nice job on a Norwegian Krag on GB and may have some Krag hand guard clips.
No idea which option it will be — more to learn.
I watched a training video on case hardening metals to be used as tools — you can ease up the stress in the metal after case hardening by placing back in the furnace at 400 degrees for a bit of time. Also, caught a bit of Larry Potterfield on the subject — always entertaining. About ready to order my furnace to heat metal to 1400 degrees and buy a fire resistant suit .
#1 Turnbull (They cost a fortune, and typically only do pistols and lever action guns — maybe a rolling block. I don’t have my hopes up that they would even touch a Krag. If they do, this restoration will skyrocket in price — but oh so tempting)
#2 Tyler Gun Works (seems to be more affordable option — may just send parts to be finished and complete rifle on my own)
#3 Wyoming Armory
Other option is, CMP Custom Shop bluing the rifles — I just need to ask them if matte or polished most resembles the finish on the Springfield Armory museum Krags. There’s also another shop I’m looking at in North Carolina called Shooters Exchange — they did a nice job on a Norwegian Krag on GB and may have some Krag hand guard clips.
No idea which option it will be — more to learn.
Re: Does the 1898 and 1902 sight use the same base?
After seeing some of the museum pieces with blue receivers, I have been puzzled, I was expecting them to have a color case hardened appearance. Now I see them having a blued appearance. Not sure how it was done. Here is an interesting thread on cleaning and a possible rust bluing. Not interested in the rust bluing but will keep the boiling/cleaning idea tucked away for future reference.
viewtopic.php?f=4&t=6316
viewtopic.php?f=4&t=6316
Re: Does the 1898 and 1902 sight use the same base?
The barrel, buttplate, and hinge bar head were rust blued according to Mallory.
In regards to the boiling — I do put my rifles through an ultrasonic heated clean. It’s not boiling, but is very hot to touch.
I do boil my Enfield brass buttplates in vinegar and use steelwool to scrub — awesome clean.
In regards to the boiling — I do put my rifles through an ultrasonic heated clean. It’s not boiling, but is very hot to touch.
I do boil my Enfield brass buttplates in vinegar and use steelwool to scrub — awesome clean.
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