Rebarreling Krag — Proper Action Wrench + Barrel Vise

[P0H0]

I’m Rebarreling and need action wrench and barrel vise recommendations. I’m glancing over the Brownells tools — — and would like to know which fit the Krag:

Action Wrenches

Barrel Vise

Thoughts on the eBay custom?

[butlersrangers]

If you search some of the old threads on the KCA Forum, by subject, there are some good solutions and recommendations.
The 'search feature' is a useful tool.

Original Krag barrels usually do not require a lot of leverage & force to remove. The thread fit is very smooth. The barrel breech-face 'bottoms' against a flange machined into the receiver, for a bit of a 'crush-fit'. A little heat from a propane torch 'liquefies' the old grease and grudge, to make release even easier.

It is good not to put clamping force on the Krag receiver-ring; this increases the force required to remove the barrel.
Also, the Krag case-hardened receiver may be easily damaged (cracked or warped) by wrenches that grip the action 'body'.

Probably the best method is an 'adapter' that simply surrounds the receiver-ring and has a lobe that fits into the 'niche' at the bottom of the Krag receiver, just behind the receiver-ring. (This has to be custom made).
I have an adapter that was 'homemade' by a KCA member years ago from a large hardened-nut.
It is used in conjunction with a large wrench and puts little stress on the Krag action.

When everything is clamped and in place, I firmly pressure the wrench to take-up all slack and give the wrench-handle two or three raps with a copper mallet.
The original barrel releases and loosens.

When installing an original barrel, I put some RIG grease on the barrel threads and breech face. Screw the barrel on by hand until tight.
I complete the last fraction of a turn with the adapter and wrench, till the original SA barrel and receiver index marks line-up.

I don't believe U.S. Krag barrels require the degree of force needed when dealing with 1903 Springfield and Model 1917 rifle barrels.

I bought a Wheeler barrel-vise on eBay and made some hardwood blocks, that I used with rosin (and maybe a tape wrap) to grip the barrel to remove and install.
It has worked for me with original Krag barrels.

[FredC]

viewtopic.php?p=33215#p33215

This is a link to an old thread I did when I sporterized my uncle's Krag. The link in the past has been corrupted. Just looked and it appears to be all there.
The photo shows my tools after they were used. Mine was disassembled with little effort. The tools were still pristine after I finished. I lent them to another member and his was very tight. He seriously damaged my tools and broke the magazine pivot off his receiver. The drive pin should have been against the receiver magazine box on the opposite side, then no damage would have occurred to his receiver. Barrels can be a piece of cake or incredibly tight to remove. A tech at Bownells told me 35 foot pounds of torque is adequate for tightening any barrel. The photo in Br's post the hex receiver tool has a lug that should be against side of the box not on the hinge.

[butlersrangers]

I searched the internet and found a 'blueprint' for making an adapter from a large nut for the U.S. Krag action.
(This was possibly drawn by 'Rcat'. It is like the adapter that he used to make).

This 'Nut-Adapter' allows a large Crescent Wrench or Pipe Wrench to be used as a Krag Action-Wrench to safely dismount or mount the action on a Krag barrel, that is immobilized in a barrel vise.
(It works)!

Also shown are internet photos of a homemade Krag Action Wrench of 'welded' construction.

I am positive I have seen all of these photos before, posted on the KCA Forum, several years ago.

IMO - The commercial action-wrenches, that POHO inquired about, all appear to clamp tightly on the 'action-ring'. This "clamping" would increase the friction on the threads and the torque needed to unscrew the action and barrel. This is counter productive and risks damaging the Krag action.

[butlersrangers]

Looking at old KCA Forum threads, I found photos of this simple improvised wrench that a member had made for the action of his Norwegian Krag.

This allowed him to separate the Norwegian action from its barrel.

(Note - Norwegian Krag rifles have left-hand barrel threads. Also, the Norwegian action does not have as wide a 'niche' for the tab on the wrench, as the U.S. action.
This is because Norwegian Krags have a third forward action-screw. The threaded screw-hole is in the same forward area as the wrench niche').

To my knowledge, there is no commercially available action-wrench made for the Krag receiver.

Something available 'off the shelf' might sort of work or be jury rigged and work without harm, if you are lucky.

The remedies, I am aware of that have worked well with Krag actions, were cleverly crafted to locate without compressing the receiver ring and utilize the 'niche' located at the 'beefy' bottom-front of the receiver.

[P0H0]

I really like the nut adapter idea!

Update: I shown the barrel nut adapter to my local gunsmith — he’s doing the metal work and rebarrel — he’s going to make the receiver adapter nut.

[FredC]

Br,
It sure seems like I remember that you removed and reinstalled a barrel once. I thought that you bought or borrowed one of the receiver tools and bought a barrel vice. I am recalling discussion with Carbon Outlaw on the use of hard wood barrel bushings. Please tell me I did not just dream all of this.

[butlersrangers]

'FredC' - This thread shows pictures of the Wheeler Barrel-Vise, wood blocks, and 'nut' action-wrench (adapter), that I used to dismount and install four Krag barrels.

Your memory is intact.

You just got to stop dreaming about me and my feet!

Attached photo is a model 1899 carbine restoration that was the product of parts, including a "barrel swap" with a donor 'scoped' carbine, that had a drilled & tapped receiver.

This model 1899 action was part of a Krag "Sporter" and had a cut-down rifle barrel on it, when I bought it.
Now it has all real carbine parts, including the barrel.

The 'scoped' Krag 'donor' is still a very fine shooter, with the cut-down rifle barrel on it.
The barrel swaps went quite smooth, using the 'Nut Adapter', a pipe-wrench, and the Wheeler barrel-vise. Both original barrels indexed perfectly on the receiving Actions!

[FredC]

Br,
I was sure you had used one of those devices in your photos. I was puzzled by your internet search to find the tools. Never had dreamed of you are your feet so far. I went to bed last night and tried to dream of one or the other maybe both. Nope, but I bought another machine, and it was misrepresented in the ad (it was covered in dust and not just pulled out of service). The other dream I remember was something about an 06 being converted to a pistol and someone daring me to shoot it. You or your feet were not in that one either.

I am attaching photos of my clamp to show the drive pin in more detail. It was not tightened particular tight and the drive pin transmitted the torque much like the lug in your examples. The driving pin is 1/8-inch diameter stainless. It worked fine on my Krag. I do not remember who I lent it to but I think he had an accident with the pipe wrench now as I put this tool on a loose receiver and cannot fathom how it would have broken out the loading door hinge. That small driving pin would have sheared way before breaking off the hinge, plus it did not even touch the hinge. All of the examples Br showed drive from the same area. So for POHO or anyone else using a similar tool just be sure you're driving wrench does not slip while you are applying torque.
If anyone does try a little heat as Br suggested, do not go overboard too much over 300F will start affecting the temper of the receiver. The operative word is a LITTLE heat.

[butlersrangers]

"Righty Tighty" & "Lefty Loosey" - (Unless it's Norwegian)!

200 degrees of heat is plenty to melt old cosmoline and turn it from a hardened 'glue' to a lubricant.

Visualize and think things through, (no dreaming).

It is easy to get directions 'turned around', when using an adapter with a wrench and being oriented a bit backwards.

When removing a Krag barrel, the 'Nut Adapter' is 'slid-in-place' on the barreled-action, before locking the barrel into the barrel-vise.

('rcathey' made his Krag 'adapters' from a 1.25"-7 nut of mild steel and thought even a Brass Nut might work).

My big Crescent-Wrench 'jaws' would not open wide enough, so I used a big Pipe-Wrench. The jaws did not mar the nut 'flats' much.
I put lots of my weight on the wrench handle to take up all slack, before striking the wrench handle 2 or 3 blows, with a copper mallet.
The barrel release was very sudden and easy!

When installing a Krag barrel, clean the male & female threads. A very light coat of RIG grease prevents galling and fends off future corrosion.
The Action can be 'hand-screwed' nearly into place.
The wrench is used judiciously, (no mallet needed), nudging the handle with one hand and visually checking, until the index marks are aligned.

It will be felt, when the barrel's breech-face contacts the flange, inside the receiver ring.
If the index marks are aligned, the extractor slots of the barrel and receiver are aligned.