A few days ago I took my 96 Krag to the range for another attempt to make sense of it patterning at 50 yards - to the right and very low. First step was to ask an assist from a neighbor. He suggested a thorough cleaning. He used a chemical he said was like acid and must be used with caution. We huddled over the rifle muttering incantations and scrubbing madly. When the patches were acceptable it was off to the range.
As 50 yards had proved less helpful we started at the 25-yard target. We found the target, the vert.string was still to the right and the elevation was better. Seeing the blade in the (?) 1902 sight was tough.
Tougher yet was the impact firing from the bench with a support for the barrel. My technique needs work. 25 110gr @ 2000fps was really painful. A factory 180 grain was the last straw. The bruises are still there. As I always shot on my feet I decided a padded sleeve was the answer. Having 1/4 foam and leather i asked myself, how hard can it be. With proper planning and a bit of change to the plan on the fly I now have a cushion over the military butt plate. Photos follow.
'RicKrager' - Nice looking 'stock-sleeve & butt pad'. That should soften the blow to the shoulder, a bit.
Even in hot summer weather, I put on a cloth USMC-style shooting jacket. It has sewn in shoulder and elbow pads which help prevent bruising and pain.
Shooting high-power rifles from the bench is more punishing to the body than "position-shooting".
Some people are more susceptible to recoil pain than others. Although, 110grain .30-40 loads are rather mild for me.
(To tame recoil at the bench, I have a firm grip on the forearm, a 'cheek-weld' at the comb and a good lean into the rifle butt, as I shoot. I have a firm foam stadium-cushion, that I lay on the shooting-bench and dig my right-elbow into, as I squeeze the trigger. This prevents the rear elbow from taking a beating on the hard bench top).
FWIW: If your shots are stringing vertically, try loosening your trigger-guard screws and rear barrel-band. Wiggle your barreled/action a bit, making sure the barrel is centered in its channel and the action is flatly seated in the stock.
Firmly gripping around the stock and action with one hand, tighten the front guard-screw "Firmly", with the other hand.
Next, tighten the rear barrel-band. When viewing along the top of the barrel, you may see a thin sliver of light between the barrel radius and the inside radius of the band. This is good; the band is not 'binding' the barrel as it heats up.
Last, tighten the rear guard-screw so it is just snug. If over tightened, the rear screw will lever or torque the barrel upward off the stock barrel channel and into the barrel-band.
An old Army rifle coach trick that was sometimes used on the range to get a new soldier over the dreaded .30 cal recoil was to put his canvas canteen cover with its wool liner over the rifle butt stock. It is not pretty, but it was an acceptable field expedient recoil pad.
I have found that raising the front and rear sand bags, places the rifle butt more squarely on the correct part of the shoulder, resulting in less felt recoil.
Just a thought, but if you were actually using a support for the barrel and the barrel alone was in contact with the support, try moving the support to a position below the stock so that only the wood is touching the support.
I always keep a set of Pachmayr rubber Recoil Pads when I go Milsurp shooting. I often shoot 100-200 rounds at a time and would have a huge bruise on my shoulder if I didn't use these.
There are different sizes. I got a small, medium and large and always have what I need for any rifle I shoot, including the Krag.
Butlersrangers, Thanks for the information regarding the screws and barrel band. Yesterday I pulled the action for the first time and found the rear trigger guard screw the tightest. Since I had the action out i cleaned the metal bits w/0000 steel wool and oil, finding few areas of concern. Now the metal bits have had a bit of oil and wipe down. On the wood under the magazine I found a stamped in E. As this is sporterized there are no original marks on the rest of the stock.
I appreciate your information for padding at the bench. I was using a padded forward rest, left hand supporting the butt, right elbow at 90. If I need to check zero off the bench again I will try an approach more as suggested on these pages. Thanks to all for their responses.
Those 110 grain loads should not be punishing at all.
Position at the Bench should not allow a recoiling gun to "hammer" you. (Hold and Pad as needed)
IMHO - A Krag should be assembled to sit naturally on its bedding at front of receiver and barrel-channel. The rear of the magazine-box should be in contact with wood to serve as a 'recoil shoulder'. Then, tighten front guard-screw very firmly.
Rear guard-screw is just snug ... too tight and it pulls rear of receiver into wood like a wedge and lifts barrel, screwing up harmonics.
I would welcome other views or experiences of others.
