What do I have? And more importantly, how do I fix a gross elevation error (high)?

[Dick Hosmer]

Welcome indeed! A very nice, complete, specimen. As you have been told, your sight combination is perfectly fine, even "interesting" from a collector standpoint, and I certainly agree that the bent barrel would have been a stretch, and probably the least-likely issue.

It pretty well just has to be the difference in loads. An 1898 (notably higher) front sight would probably go a long way to ease the problem. Are you going to hunt - where you need to know where the bullet will impact, or just 'punching paper' for fun?

If the latter, an easy solution - very familiar to .45-70 'trapdoor' shooters - is to use two bulls, one above the other - aim at the lower and adjust the vertical spacing until your groups land in the center of the upper. That way, when you show your friends a nice tight group it isn't just in the white backer...

[Ned Butts]

Probably the biggest issue is that the M1896 lowest "battle" setting is for 300 yards with 220 grain bullets (as was the M 1892 sight before it), they will shoot higher than point of aim at shorter ranges. Factoring in lighter 180 grain, higher velocity ammo and you will likely shoot quite high. A higher front sight blade will likely help but custom loading should also help. Or as Dick suggested two bulls when shooting for fun.

[butlersrangers]

I am having a lot of difficulty with logging-in and posting on the KCA, today.
A rather lengthy response to this thread, that I was trying to add, would not post and then disappeared. Oh Bother!

Dick Hosmer's suggestion of using an upper and lower bulls-eye and aiming at the lower target is a practice I also use,
when sighting in a rifle.
It is important to establish how a rifle is grouping, in terms of group size and group location.
Shooting one or two five-shot groups at 50yards, using one sight-picture and not fiddling with the sights, will establish group-size and where.
Then remedial action can be taken.

It has been my experience, that 'sighted-in' Krags will generally group jacketed 150-grain, 168-grain, 180-grain, and 220-grain bullets,
(in full-power loads), to nearly the same area on a target at 50-yards.

[butlersrangers]

Whig made the very good observation that stock bedding issues can influence barrel harmonics, which can affect group placement and size.

I would suggest that 'Pilotallen' try this simple procedure:
1. Partially loosen both the rear and front trigger-guard screws.
2. Hold the Krag rifle level and vibrate & shake things a bit, to let the barrel and action settle into place.
3. Grasp the rifle around the action area, 'squeeze' a bit, and try to ascertain the receiver is bottoming against the stock and centered,
without rock or roll. Tighten the front guard-screw 'Very Firmly'.
4. Just tighten the rear guard-screw, until it is snug. If too tight, the rear screw will elevate the barrel off of the forearm barrel-channel.
5. Check the forearm to ensure the barrel appears centered in the stock. Check the stock tip,
to see that the barrel is showing even contact with the wood.
Make sure that the barrel top is not pressing 'up' into the front barrel-band.
There can be a slight sliver of light between the barrel top and inside radius of the front band.

[butlersrangers]

'Pilotallen' - The front and rear parts of the 'slide' on your model 1896 sight are bent.
This is likely why you think the 'lock-screw' is bent.

The 'slide' can be taken apart and the bent pieces straightened.
Simply lay the bent part on a hardwood surface, bowed 'up'.
Position a hardwood or brass block on the bow and judiciously strike the block with a plastic mallet.
Check your progress, until the part is straight.
When straightening the back part of the slide, (that holds the 'lock-screw'),
position the part so that the knob overhangs the block edges and is not struck or touched, during the repair process.
It is easy to shear the knob off of the lock-screw.

Some pictures are attached to help.
(p.s. - The front mounting-screw for the m-1896 sight has a longer shank and thicker head, than the rear-screw. It stands 'proud').

[psteinmayer]

Welcome Pilotallen...

Beautiful rifle! Not much I can add to the discussion... it's all pretty much been said... but I will advise you to save your brass and reload! Krag ammo is deifinitely difficult to find these days, but components aren't. The best results I've achieved are using the Hornady 220 gr RN bullet with 40 grains of 4350 (I use IMR), and I use CCI primers (#34 or 200). This is basically as close as you can get to the original .30 Army round (yes, that is the actual official name for it). The term 30-40 refers to the original designation of 30 caliber bullet with 40 grains of smokeless powder... which is a hold over from earlier black powder ammo designations, i.e. 45-70, 50-70, etc. I have also achieved good results shooting a Hornady 178 gr ELD Match bullet with the appropriate charge of H-4895 too, but mostly, I stick with my 220 gr round! For loading, I use LEE dies exclusively, and have been loading for my Krags for 40 years now. Brass can be made to last a very long time with proper care and annealing. I hope I've been helpful. Happy shooting

[Pilotallen]

Thanks everyone for the advice and welcome. I will attempt to bend the slide on the front sight back… carefully. And I will try some 220 gr bullets. I suspect that if I want to sight in for 100 yards, I’ll have to replace the front sight which I’m not too excited about doing. I may try a little brass shim or two under the rear mount if it isn’t obvious. I’m going to fiddle with the rear sight this afternoon and see what I come up with.

[Dick Hosmer]

Well, I'm confused. There is no slide on the front sight so I'm sure you meant rear. But no amount, or method, of shimming is going to lower the rear sight. If changing the load doesn't help your problem, raising the front sight is easy to do, at virtually zero cost. Don't even have to buy a blade - make it from scrap...


50 yds. is not the ideal test range. Most rifles will print fairly close at 25yds to what they'd do at 100. Should at least be on the paper.

[butlersrangers]

Rules of 'iron sights':

Rear-Sight - (Your bullet group on the target will move in the same direction, that you move the rear-sight).

Raising the rear-sight, will cause the barrel to be more inclined upward when aimed, thus causing you to shoot higher.
Moving a rear-sight to the right, will angle the barrel more to the right when aimed, thus your bullet group will be moved right.

Front-Sight - (Your bullet group on the target will move opposite to the direction, that you move the front-sight).

Increasing the height of the front-blade, will result in the barrel being angled more downward, when aimed.
This will lower the bullet group.
Moving the front-blade to the right, will result in the barrel being angled more to the left, when aimed,
and the bullet group will be shifted left.

[Pilotallen]

My apologies — you are correct. I was thinking about things incorrectly. The simple solution is clearly a taller front sight.