dry stock

[kw64]

I have an old rifle and the stock is very dry. What ever oil was ever on it feels to be largely gone. Would you recommend rubbing in linseed or tung oil to restore the original look and feel to the stock? If not, what should I do? I should note that it is an old Springfield 30-06, but completely original. thanks

[Zgun]

Vaughn:

1903 Springfield's were finished through the 1920's by being dipped in Linseed oil. I would suggest you use BLO and Turpentine at a ratio of 50/50. Put on coat, let it sit for 15 or 20 minutes, wipe off the excess with a soft cloth and then rub the stock with the heel of your hand until it feels dry. Let that dry overnight and repeat the process until you have a nice full finish. I find I am happy with between 6 and 9 coats for a US Military rifle that has not seen linseed oil in a long time. After that, once a month for a year, then one or twice a year. I put the mix in a glass jar and set it in a pan of hot water for 10 minutes or so to warm it up as it applies easier and seems to flow into the wood easier.

Zgun

[Dick Hosmer]

Good advice, and, if your stock is dirty as well as dry, add a little pumice to the mix (no more than one tablespoon per quart) for the first couple of applications. When the pumice is used, turkish toweling is a good applicator - but when you get to just liquid, your hand will do just fine.

[Zgun]

+1 on the pumice Dick [smiley=thumbsup.gif]

[Parashooter]

For those who enjoy using the original finish material, raw linseed oil is preferable to the "boiled" variety -



Using raw linseed, which penetrates better before drying than "boiled," allows us to avoid the unnecessary cost and odor of turpentine.

[Zgun]

I love the smell of pine trees... No argument parashooter regards originality. I do find however that using BLO is more friendly and does not require extend time to cure. The results are truly amazing IMHO.


Raw and Boiled linseed oil

Raw Linseed Oil is 100% pure, non-edible and slow-drying. Raw Linseed Oil helps wood retain its natural moisture content which retards cracking, checking, shrinking, and aids water repellency.

Boiled Linseed Oil contains driers to speed film drying and hardness. Linseed oil without this additive can take over a week to dry. Enhances brushing and leveling when added to oil based paints. Linseed Oil is a yellowish oil extracted from the seeds of flax and used as a drying oil in paints and varnishes and in linoleum, printing inks, and synthetic resin.

"Raw" linseed oil is just that - linseed oil mercilessly squeezed from flax seed and packaged with no additional additives or preservatives. Raw linseed oil dries very slowly, taking weeks to fully cure. You should limit its use to the insides of wood gutters, chopping blocks, sawhorses, and other items exposed to the elements where drying time is not an important consideration.

[gnoahhh]

I'll add that pure tung oil is a viable alternative, and will dry a lot faster than raw linseed oil. You can't tell the difference between tung and linseed oil in the finished product, both in terms of looks and prevention of moisture fenestration. (But it has to be the pure stuff, not the tung oil finish sold in the hardware stores.)

An old WWII Army artificer who worked for me many years ago gave me the formula he and his buddies used to add protection to Garand and Springfield stocks. 50/50 (or so) melted beeswax and linseed oil, cut with turpentine to the desired consistency. Wax on, wax off. Protects my U.S. milsurps, and leaves a pleasant low luster sheen to boot. I figured if it was good enough for walnut stocks dragged through the Huertgen Forest, it's good enough for me.

[kw64]

Thank you all for your guidance on this stock. I appreciate it!