OK now the fun begins, forearm repair

[Dick Hosmer]

Not sure I understand exactly what you meant about "cutting off the remnant", but you DEFINITELY want the joint at the CENTER of the band, as per Parashooter's drawing, NOT at the rear edge of it.

[Artemus]

Dick, is that so that the band itself would supply some amount of support on the joint? With epoxy, would that be much of a benefit? That requires a more complex fitting/measure with two cuts or careful sanding and 1 cut (as the approx. 1/4"remnant is not cut square, sort of a taper), both of which have to be square to each other. The maker of the forearm recommended an easier method. Putting the joint flush. Interested in comments.

[Dick Hosmer]

I like the midpoint method because it gives you a way to cover any little glitches that occur - if something isn't exactly square it will not show. The support cannot be ignored either, but no matter where you put the joint, you should have some sort of longitudinal support as well. I see absolutely NO difference in coming up with the correct OAL being caused by the splice location. Just me. Haven't actually done it yet but I have a couple of projects in mind.

[Artemus]

Update...I finally got around to a decision and went the "flush" method. I drilled the original stock from a template I made and the alignment was close enough. It's pinned, epoxied and clamped. Tomorrow we shall see.

[madsenshooter]

I've done it both flush, as you have, and mid band. The one done flush was an original forearm taken from a 92/96 that was savagely broken at the wrist and put onto another 92/96 that looked like the forearm was cut off with a bayonet. The mid band was a Larry E. Price forearm that would not have been wide enough to do flush on the 98 I put it on. I had the wood to spare to make up for it, and let him know it was a bit small on the big end, a problem that he must've fixed.

[Stretch32]

I used one of Mr. Price's fore ends myself with the flush method and it worked like a champ. I was able to get a good solid join with pins, a big clamp and acra-glass gel. Now that it's all together I've fired a few hundred rounds with no issues and the only giveaway it's a repair job is the slightly different grain of the wood between the butt stock and replacement fore end.

Stretch

[Dick Hosmer]

Can anyone refer me to a tested source of forends other than Mr. Price? I have had a couple of verbal run-ins with him over some really BAD stuff he has offered on Gunbroker, with, insultingly, "no questions answered and no returns accepted". In short, I would not pee on him if he was on fire.

[madsenshooter]

East Taylor Dick, I'm fairly certain S&S buys from them too. http://www.partsforantiqueguns.com/ I've not used their forearms. I did get one from Dunlap Woodcafts in European walnut. It is going to take a lot of sanding to get the extra they left me down to size.

[Artemus]

I am pleased with the forearm joint. The stain and BLO matched up well with 100+ years of oiled stock. All I have left is the pin for the barrel band. I'll post a full assembly later. Thank you to all that weighed in to help me. Another Krag rifle rescued!

[Artemus]

Reassembled but still need a bit more BLO rubbed in. For me, the Larry Price forearm was a good fit and grain match.