New Member and New(ish) Krag

Historical threads originally posted to the 'Krag Forum' board
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98Krag
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New Member and New(ish) Krag

Post by 98Krag »

Hello!!

I'm new to the forum as a member but have been reading through for a few weeks now. As a former infantryman I have a real interest in military rifles. I acquired a 30-40 Krag from an ad on Gunbroker a few months ago. The pictures showed a rifle that appeared as if it were cleaned with steel wool but everything appeared to be "there" and the ad had been reposted every week for three weeks. I figured that all the history and patina had been stripped since people were not jumping on this rifle. I planned to send it off to the CMP custom shop for an overhaul and end with a range worthy Krag for my collection and no fear of wearing out a collectors piece. I paid $550 after shipping and received a very nice rifle with no signs of being stripped as I had thought. The rifle still had a patina of sorts, no rust, smooth action, no cracks in the stock. The stock had no cartouches except for a circled P behind the trigger and a small V just in front of that and a small U on the barrel band. Other rifles had inspector marks and I thought that this stock had been refinished but it doesn't appear to be sanded and scrapped. When I found the web site to run the serial number that came back April 1898 I started to search to see if the majority of the rifle was actually correct for its age. From other members of the KCA if found that, at least as I understand it, this rifle is complete but I would like a few second opinions. Also should I leave it be or replace the barrel as the current one is very badly pitted. Any information and experience that others may have would really be appreciated. I found the pool of information on Krags not as deep as it is for Garands. Serial number is 155853, what do the cartouches mean and are there others to look for?

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butlersrangers
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Re: New Member and New(ish) Krag

Post by butlersrangers »

98Krag: Welcome to the KCA Forum. I am glad you obtained a Krag, you like, for reasonable money. It is likely your Krag, #155853, was assembled around December, 1898.
It is believed, Krag receivers were numbered, finished, and went into parts bins to await assembly into rifles at Springfield Armory. This means, Krags were not manufactured and accepted for service in numerical order. Exact dating is not possible for most Krags.
Since your stock has no 'acceptance cartouche', but does have a 'circled P' (function proof), it is commonly believed this indicates a replacement stock that was done at an Armory. The small letters in front of the 'circled P' are probably from a sub-inspector or stock fitter.
The "U" on your barrel-band is common to many US military arms. It is an assembly aid and should be on the right side of a Springfield made arm (it can be different on Remington Rolling Blocks and Remington-Lees).
I would recommend you give your Krag's barrel a thorough cleaning and a fair shooting trial. IMHO - It would be difficult to ever get your money out of a 're-barreled' Krag. But, only you can determine what is important to you.
If you post some pictures of your Krag, you will get more helpful analysis from KCA members.

98Krag
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Re: New Member and New(ish) Krag

Post by 98Krag »

Here are a few pics, I'll need to post them one by one as they are too big to groupImage

98Krag
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Re: New Member and New(ish) Krag

Post by 98Krag »

The only stock cartouches I can find Image

98Krag
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Re: New Member and New(ish) Krag

Post by 98Krag »

I wish I was better with technology. These pictures would be more completeImage

98Krag
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Re: New Member and New(ish) Krag

Post by 98Krag »

Well the pics aren't as good as I hoped but at least its a point of reference.

I took butlersrangers's advice and gave the barrel a thorough cleaning and I got a fair amount of crud out before I said 'nuts to this' and went to the range. The rifle shot high and to the left at first. After my buddy pointed out I had the rear sight slide at 400 the rifle leveled out about 1.5 inches left at 100 yards. Personally I think the 1.5 is the operators less than stellar shooting. Pretty good for a barrel that my be 80 or 90 years old, depending on the last arsenal overhaul. When I looked at the barrel anything I gave up on cleaning out had been blown out of the barrel. :)
I don't know if I did well on this rifle but I'm very happy with the rifle ;D
Now for the new questions and pardon my ignorance but do the Krags have any matching serial numbers on any of the parts such as a Mauser or Garand might? Or was the Krag rifle series built before serializing every part began?
Also could someone please explain how to break this rifle down for cleaning? I haven't found much outside disassembly of the bolt but I don't want to break something by the "bigger hammer" approach.

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butlersrangers
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Re: New Member and New(ish) Krag

Post by butlersrangers »

98Krag: I'm glad you had a fun 'outing' with your Model 1898 Krag. U.S. Service Rifles made at Springfield, (M-1 Garands, included), only had one serial number and it was stamped on the receiver.
I never understood the British and European practice of serial numbering everything. I think we should marvel at our industry's ability to turn out excellent weapons that shoot exceptionally well and use carefully gauged interchangeable parts!

FredC
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Re: New Member and New(ish) Krag

Post by FredC »

As for not apparent things in taking down the Krag. The pin holding the trigger assembly is tapered. Trying to push it or hammer it out in the wrong direction will break the trigger. I had to make a new one years ago because I did not pay attention. I think every thing else is straight forward.

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butlersrangers
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Re: New Member and New(ish) Krag

Post by butlersrangers »

IMHO, there is little reason to dismount the Krag trigger assembly (unless you are replacing parts or doing a 'trigger-job'). It can be thoroughly cleaned in place, using a 'pipe cleaner' and solvent. Due to the strong coiled 'sear-spring', it takes a lot of manual dexterity and a certain knack & experience to get the Krag trigger assembly back in place.

Tapered gun pins generally are removed by driving them left to right.

The old NRA 'Firearms Assembly Handbook' has a helpful guide by E. J. Hoffschmidt, from the 1960s. (PM me and I'll send you a copy). Image

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