New Buyer 1898 30/40

[Bill]

I recently bought an 1898 Krag. The rifle looked really good, and I was excited to get it for $300. The bore looked good initially, but I can see that it is pitted. Also, I didn't notice the VFW stamp on the rifle until later. I was just excited that it was a complete rifle. The seller does have others that he's going to unload, probably for the same price. He said he bought a collection and didn't care to have the Krags. Anyway, I'm wondering, did I just get ripped off? I was thinking of buying more, possibly. He also has some 1903's and a 1903a3. I don't particularly care to have a VFW...but it seemed like a good price. Also, the stock looks real nice, but has no cartouches. Can anybody tell me some info on this? The barrel is 30 inches. It looks like somebody tried to blue it, or the blue is just from the paint.

[butlersrangers]

Bill, welcome to the KCA Forum.

It certainly appears your metal was painted to look 'spiffy' for the VFW. Carefully check your chamber to make sure it was not altered for .30-06 blanks. (A visual inspection and trying if a fired .30-06 case will chamber should rule this out). If you got a serviceable & complete Krag with an intact stock for $300 you did good.
I have found small squares of 'Scotch-brite' pad, soaked with nail polish remover, to be the best way to remove paint and leave original metal finish and patina intact.

[Bill]

Will do, thanks. Can I just use an unfired round (bolt out of course) as I have no unfired 30-06 casings? Thanks for the tip on the paint too. It kinda ruins the rifle. Is the stock original or aftermarket, can you tell? That's what really drew me to the rifle, as I had seen mostly sporterized ones.

[butlersrangers]

Bill: What I could see of your stock it looks nice, but, probably refinished by the VFW to look good with that paint! More pictures showing details and the whole arm would get better answers.
A loaded .30-06 round will only enter about 2/3 into a correct Krag chamber, before it hangs up on the larger diameter '06 case. I gave you the 'heads up' because we recently had a member, who fired a .30-40 round in a VFW rifle, altered to accept .30-06 blanks. He was not harmed, but, it did interesting things to the .30-40 case, totally 'blowing out' the case shoulder.

[Bill]

The 30-06 went in around half way, maybe 2/3. Not more than half though. The casing had room in the chamber, but something towards the bullet area got hung up. I was able to wipe some of the paint off with acetone and a paper towel. I can't wait to get it all off so I can really enjoy the rifle. I'm thinking the stock is original. I took the butt plate off and there were three holes...looks like it was for cleaning rods. And, it looked old. Don't know if these will help.

[butlersrangers]

Bill: That is a very nice looking original Krag stock and hand-guard. I will caution you to take your rear sight off and slide your hand-guard up the barrel and back into position, when re-assembling (and the reverse when taking things apart). Then put the sight back on. Never snap the hand-guard off and on the barrel or the wood will crack. (When it is off the barrel, twist a quarter and a nickel into the hand-guard's springs, to prevent the spring pressure from stressing and cracking the wood).

The .30-40 Krag cartridge case has a .456 inch ('head') diameter right in front of its rim. The Krag chamber mouth is approximately .458-.459" diameter (unless it has been bored out for .30-06 blanks). Examining the chamber from the breech, you should see a gradual tapering of the chamber walls and a distinct shoulder at about 1.7 inches into the chamber. If this is all strange to you, have an experienced 'gun guy' or gunsmith examine it for you.

(I am attaching a picture of a Krag 'butt-trap' so you can see what goes in there).

[Bill]

Thanks for the heads up on the hand guard. I was worried about cracking it while taking it off, as it seems like it would be very easy to do. I love the old wooden stocks and am glad to hear that it's original. I am a little familiar with the various sections. It does appear to have a shoulder around 1.8 inches...but I might not have measure from the correct spot. Probably going to have to try to find a gunsmith to check it, or get some tools of my own.

[Bill]

Another question. Should I apply an oil to the stock occasionally to keep the wood from drying out? I currently have tung and BLO. Should I use one of these oils on the stock occasionally?

[butlersrangers]

Bill: It sounds like your chamber is "OK". The key clues are that the chamber mouth should measure around .456 to .459". The chamber walls should angle inward to a distinct sloping shoulder area. If your chamber was reamed out for .30-06 blanks, it would measure about .467" at the chamber mouth.
Some knowledgeable collectors insist that only Raw Linseed oil should be used on U.S. Military stocks. I have used Boiled Linseed Oil and Tung Oil without problems. A nice penetrating wood polish can be made by using a 50/50 mix of Turpentine & Linseed Oil. Sometimes, I freshen up a gun stock with 'Pledge' or Howard "feed & Wax". Wood seems to respond nicely to these products. (Others may insist that I am a Barbarian).

[Dads Krag]

Raw linseed oil never really dries & leaves a gummy surface that collects dirt.

You can give the stock a light scrubbing with turpentine & steel wool to remove some of the blackened gummy deposits. That will also prep the surface for rubbing in some boiled linseed oil. I rub the oil in full strength, rubbing briskly to warm the wood. (& your hand) As the oil starts to get tacky, I rub it in some more with turpentine on the palm of my hand. Keep adding turpentine and rub until the thinned oil has penetarted the wood. The turpentine cuts the gloss & leaves a nice satin glow.

If there are dents (not gouges) in the wood, using an iron on a moist cloth over the dents will steam out a lot of them. Do that between the cleaning & re-oiling.

I once cleaned a CMP M-1 Garrand that was completely black from many coats of raw linseed oil. I gave it the complete treatment. Cleaned it, steamed out the dents & re-oiled it. It will brings out the warmth of the wood but still looks old & used.