Sporterized 1896 carbine

Sporterized and unofficial modified Krags
User avatar
butlersrangers
Posts: 9892
Joined: Wed Oct 07, 2009 11:35 pm
Location: Below the Bridge, Michigan

Re: Sporterized 1896 carbine

Post by butlersrangers »

In regard to a barrel-band, you might just start with a regular Krag rifle band.
Your stock appears 'stepped' for it, it has a degree of adjustment, and you can use or not use the sling-swivel.

Aaron
Posts: 22
Joined: Mon Mar 23, 2020 1:43 am

Re: Sporterized 1896 carbine

Post by Aaron »

I bought a band with the sling swivel on it buts it's too narrow. Would a carbine one be wider ?

User avatar
butlersrangers
Posts: 9892
Joined: Wed Oct 07, 2009 11:35 pm
Location: Below the Bridge, Michigan

Re: Sporterized 1896 carbine

Post by butlersrangers »

Krag model 1899 carbine barrel-band has the same inside dimensions as the rifle barrel-band. (The rifle band has the virtue of a degree of adjustment).

I regret telling you this, but, shaping the stock tip for a barrel-band should have been done before the wood finish.

(p.s. - Even the model 1896 carbine barrel-band has similar inside dimensions, except that it accommodates a larger barrel radius). ImageImage

Aaron
Posts: 22
Joined: Mon Mar 23, 2020 1:43 am

Re: Sporterized 1896 carbine

Post by Aaron »

Yeah, the stock has a indention where a band was. Just thought the stock band would work. Yikes. What if I left the band off ?

User avatar
butlersrangers
Posts: 9892
Joined: Wed Oct 07, 2009 11:35 pm
Location: Below the Bridge, Michigan

Re: Sporterized 1896 carbine

Post by butlersrangers »

A Split Stock from barrel whip!

The Krag trigger-guard screws are very close together. If barrel is not held in channel by band or anchor-screw, the barrel rises putting lots of torque on the wood, causing splits in front and behind the magazine box.

How close is your band to fitting? The Krag rifle barrel-band can be 'spread' a bit by twisting a screw-driver blade in the gap. (I do this to get the band over the retaining pin that goes through the stock, in front of the 'clamped' band).

IHHO - If spreading the band won't work, you are best off to reshape and fit a barrel-band to the forearm now and re-finish the area, where wood was reduced.

(If the spread band will slip onto the stock, you can file a narrow channel, around the stock, for it to clamp into and be retained. The channel will be hidden by the band).

That step in the stock begs for a barrel-band. With a File, the shaping won't take long.

Protect the finished stock area, behind the 'Step', with some wraps of masking-tape.

Aaron
Posts: 22
Joined: Mon Mar 23, 2020 1:43 am

Re: Sporterized 1896 carbine

Post by Aaron »

Here's a few pictures of the issue ImageImageImage

Aaron
Posts: 22
Joined: Mon Mar 23, 2020 1:43 am

Re: Sporterized 1896 carbine

Post by Aaron »

It's 1.230" where the band should go

User avatar
butlersrangers
Posts: 9892
Joined: Wed Oct 07, 2009 11:35 pm
Location: Below the Bridge, Michigan

Re: Sporterized 1896 carbine

Post by butlersrangers »

The barrel-band "U" should be on the Right-Side of the rifle.
(The barrel-band has a slight taper on the inside).

Your barrel-band appears very 'stretched' in your photos.

I suspect wood will have to be removed (and contoured), especially at the bottom of your forearm, to allow proper seating of the band and engagement of the (band/swivel) screw.

Aaron
Posts: 22
Joined: Mon Mar 23, 2020 1:43 am

Re: Sporterized 1896 carbine

Post by Aaron »

Luckily I can just redo the forearm and be good. I will try that this weekend and go from there

User avatar
butlersrangers
Posts: 9892
Joined: Wed Oct 07, 2009 11:35 pm
Location: Below the Bridge, Michigan

Re: Sporterized 1896 carbine

Post by butlersrangers »

FWIW: To fit the barrel-band, I suggest you take your rifle apart.

Make sure the top inside radius of your barrel-band matches the radius of the barrel at the point where it will be located.

With the barreled/action off of your stock, check the fit of the barrel-band to the wood.

There is an obvious shoulder that positions on the top of the barrel-channel.

The inside radius of the lower part of the barrel-band is a 'pattern' for the front part of the forearm wood contour.

Once the forearm tip can easily enter the barrel-band, you can reassemble your Krag and use the barrel as a guide as you slowly remove & contour wood and carefully fit the band into position.

Post Reply