In regard to a barrel-band, you might just start with a regular Krag rifle band.
Your stock appears 'stepped' for it, it has a degree of adjustment, and you can use or not use the sling-swivel.
Sporterized 1896 carbine
- butlersrangers
- Posts: 9892
- Joined: Wed Oct 07, 2009 11:35 pm
- Location: Below the Bridge, Michigan
Re: Sporterized 1896 carbine
I bought a band with the sling swivel on it buts it's too narrow. Would a carbine one be wider ?
- butlersrangers
- Posts: 9892
- Joined: Wed Oct 07, 2009 11:35 pm
- Location: Below the Bridge, Michigan
Re: Sporterized 1896 carbine
Krag model 1899 carbine barrel-band has the same inside dimensions as the rifle barrel-band. (The rifle band has the virtue of a degree of adjustment).
I regret telling you this, but, shaping the stock tip for a barrel-band should have been done before the wood finish.
(p.s. - Even the model 1896 carbine barrel-band has similar inside dimensions, except that it accommodates a larger barrel radius).
I regret telling you this, but, shaping the stock tip for a barrel-band should have been done before the wood finish.
(p.s. - Even the model 1896 carbine barrel-band has similar inside dimensions, except that it accommodates a larger barrel radius).
Re: Sporterized 1896 carbine
Yeah, the stock has a indention where a band was. Just thought the stock band would work. Yikes. What if I left the band off ?
- butlersrangers
- Posts: 9892
- Joined: Wed Oct 07, 2009 11:35 pm
- Location: Below the Bridge, Michigan
Re: Sporterized 1896 carbine
A Split Stock from barrel whip!
The Krag trigger-guard screws are very close together. If barrel is not held in channel by band or anchor-screw, the barrel rises putting lots of torque on the wood, causing splits in front and behind the magazine box.
How close is your band to fitting? The Krag rifle barrel-band can be 'spread' a bit by twisting a screw-driver blade in the gap. (I do this to get the band over the retaining pin that goes through the stock, in front of the 'clamped' band).
IHHO - If spreading the band won't work, you are best off to reshape and fit a barrel-band to the forearm now and re-finish the area, where wood was reduced.
(If the spread band will slip onto the stock, you can file a narrow channel, around the stock, for it to clamp into and be retained. The channel will be hidden by the band).
That step in the stock begs for a barrel-band. With a File, the shaping won't take long.
Protect the finished stock area, behind the 'Step', with some wraps of masking-tape.
The Krag trigger-guard screws are very close together. If barrel is not held in channel by band or anchor-screw, the barrel rises putting lots of torque on the wood, causing splits in front and behind the magazine box.
How close is your band to fitting? The Krag rifle barrel-band can be 'spread' a bit by twisting a screw-driver blade in the gap. (I do this to get the band over the retaining pin that goes through the stock, in front of the 'clamped' band).
IHHO - If spreading the band won't work, you are best off to reshape and fit a barrel-band to the forearm now and re-finish the area, where wood was reduced.
(If the spread band will slip onto the stock, you can file a narrow channel, around the stock, for it to clamp into and be retained. The channel will be hidden by the band).
That step in the stock begs for a barrel-band. With a File, the shaping won't take long.
Protect the finished stock area, behind the 'Step', with some wraps of masking-tape.
Re: Sporterized 1896 carbine
Here's a few pictures of the issue
Re: Sporterized 1896 carbine
It's 1.230" where the band should go
- butlersrangers
- Posts: 9892
- Joined: Wed Oct 07, 2009 11:35 pm
- Location: Below the Bridge, Michigan
Re: Sporterized 1896 carbine
The barrel-band "U" should be on the Right-Side of the rifle.
(The barrel-band has a slight taper on the inside).
Your barrel-band appears very 'stretched' in your photos.
I suspect wood will have to be removed (and contoured), especially at the bottom of your forearm, to allow proper seating of the band and engagement of the (band/swivel) screw.
(The barrel-band has a slight taper on the inside).
Your barrel-band appears very 'stretched' in your photos.
I suspect wood will have to be removed (and contoured), especially at the bottom of your forearm, to allow proper seating of the band and engagement of the (band/swivel) screw.
Re: Sporterized 1896 carbine
Luckily I can just redo the forearm and be good. I will try that this weekend and go from there
- butlersrangers
- Posts: 9892
- Joined: Wed Oct 07, 2009 11:35 pm
- Location: Below the Bridge, Michigan
Re: Sporterized 1896 carbine
FWIW: To fit the barrel-band, I suggest you take your rifle apart.
Make sure the top inside radius of your barrel-band matches the radius of the barrel at the point where it will be located.
With the barreled/action off of your stock, check the fit of the barrel-band to the wood.
There is an obvious shoulder that positions on the top of the barrel-channel.
The inside radius of the lower part of the barrel-band is a 'pattern' for the front part of the forearm wood contour.
Once the forearm tip can easily enter the barrel-band, you can reassemble your Krag and use the barrel as a guide as you slowly remove & contour wood and carefully fit the band into position.
Make sure the top inside radius of your barrel-band matches the radius of the barrel at the point where it will be located.
With the barreled/action off of your stock, check the fit of the barrel-band to the wood.
There is an obvious shoulder that positions on the top of the barrel-channel.
The inside radius of the lower part of the barrel-band is a 'pattern' for the front part of the forearm wood contour.
Once the forearm tip can easily enter the barrel-band, you can reassemble your Krag and use the barrel as a guide as you slowly remove & contour wood and carefully fit the band into position.