After market triggers for Krags and trigger mods

[madsenshooter]

That screw was all the way up, hadn't been moved since the phosphate was applied. Norwegian workers leaving the Nazis a long two stage pull on purpose? It's fully single stage now. A bit heavier than what I like. A little movement before it comes off the sear. It feels like I'm about at the end of the adjustment, needs a little oil to soak in.

WD did its thing, I was able to adjust to the point that the sear lets the striker go a milisec after I close the bolt!

[FredC]

for the shooters that have the sight mounted on the bolt knob that spring under the bolt would limit the amount the sight moves. That would be a big plus not having the sight move as you pull the trigger.

[madsenshooter]

Yes it would. An interesting change between Norwegian models too. I had to back the screw back out about 1/2 turn to get enough sear engagement that I couldn't make it trip by thumping the cocking piece in various directions.

Somewhere around here I have a Viggo Miller trigger attachment. I had it on a 98 in a benchrest stock. Oh, I remember taking it off when I put the barrel in the action. It's in a box somewhere, I may even have a new one stashed away.

I found mention of some Norwegian 1894 rifles having this adjustment screw here: www.cruffler.com/historic-october01.html Works pretty good, may have been the reason the US trigger heel bearing surface had walls on the side up to around serial #25000. The walls would keep the trigger from slipping off the surface of the adjusting screw.

[psteinmayer]

Cleaning & de-greasing, judicious 'stoning', and proper lubrication, will likely improve your Krag's two-stage trigger.

FWIW, my 1898 had some drag in the trigger, caused by some scratches in the engagement components. I spent some time with fine, very fine and strap stones and it smoothed right out and is a respectable 3.5 lb pull! It can be done... and is absolutely CMP legal.

[butlersrangers]

Just to reiterate, back in 'Dr. Hudson's Time' (early 1900's), the term "drag" meant the first-stage of the two-stage trigger. It was new to shooter's. They didn't like it and got away with eliminating it from their competition Krags.

If you like two-stage triggers, (I do), they serve the shooter well and are required by match rules.

IMHO - A good two-stage trigger has lots of sear-engagement and allows you to smoothly and predictably take up the first-stage and come to a distinct 'Stop'.
The second-stage crisply releases with 3 to 3 1/2 pounds of additional pressure.

The problems to solve in a two-stage trigger are 'creep' (grittiness, roughness and friction in movement) and a heavy release of the second-stage.
Personally, I have never been bothered by 'over travel' on a rifle trigger.

[Whig]

A nice two stage trigger can give the shooter a lot better control over the last bit of "break" before the sear is released or the "hammer drops". I got used to this with shooting my Colt Pythons since I was a teenager where the double action trigger pull would raise the hammer to mid point with the first stage and then a distinctive, but slight, change was encountered that allowed a slight pause, milliseconds, to get the final sight picture aligned and then pull through the second stage with about a 1/2 pound pull to release and fire.

Two stage triggers are really nice for this control.

I have a single stage on a long distance rifle and it breaks with no travel at about 8 ounces of pull. You really have to be ready for that but there is no movement created by working the trigger for the sear release.

The Krag trigger seems to work quite well for the heavy rifle if you smooth out the rough spots. It makes a difference and is quite surprising how well these triggers can work for us after 120 years!

[FredC]

For BR and Whig, I too like the 2 stage pull. On my 222 Savage it has that new fangled trigger with the safety blade in the center of the trigger. Take the slack out and the next little bit of motion sets it off. Reminiscent of the military 2 stage.
If any want to take a good photo of the trigger on the action and compare to my shop made trigger, it would be nice to compare them to see if the desirable features could be easily had by modifying a standard trigger. Maybe Parashooter's trick plus modifying the "A" cam. May or may not be legal for your sanctioned shoots.

[butlersrangers]

I'm not sure exactly what you want to compare in pictures, Fred?

[FredC]

Maybe another photo from the other side might help. I made that trigger free style with not drawings or notes. Just too many years ago to remember any of the details. It did have the same favorable pull characteristics in both my dad's Krag as well as my sporter.

With your photo I do see the gap to the "A" cam as greater on mine. Not sure if it is just moved or it is a combination of the "A" and "B" cam changes.

[butlersrangers]

I changed my post to show a new photo of a model 1898 Krag trigger. (The model 1896 action hid detail from the right-side).