Help with a sporterized stock

[Flatlander15]

Hello all, I am a proud new father of a neatly cut down Krag. At first, I was determined to get a new carbine stock. Problem is, the barrel is 24" so it would look goofy. Somebody cut down a 1898 stock and fit it to the 1896. I've fallen in love with the stock except for a few things.

As you can see, the stock has two deep cracks in the forend, an inch and a half or two in front of the barrel band all the way to the end.

What would be the best way to repair this? I was thinking of using something like this -
http://www.woodworkingshop.com/product/ca00001/?inMed=GSTORE&dfw_tracker=18711-ca00001&gclid=CJ7d1PD_ztECFQaGaQodH2oLuQ

Following that, I was also thinking of drilling a hole and installing the thinnest brass screw I can find, and cut/filed flush. I don't think that part of the stock takes much damage seeing as the pressure is at the barrel band which is sound and intact, but I'll do whatever it takes to save the fore end.


The second issue is I dislike the stock color very much. What is the easiest way that takes the least amount of sanding to strip the coating? The cartouches were sanded away years ago, and i'd rather not sand anything if possible. I like the character and dings, dark spots from carrying, etc etc.

I have a can of paint/epoxy remover that I used to strip the ugly paint "finish" on a Rossi 92. That worked great, but is that too harsh for this?

My ideal outcome is getting it to bare wood with minimal material removed, stain it with dark brown Fiebings leather dye (2-4 coats) over a few days, and finish with 2-4 coats of truoil.

This stock is just too darn light for my tastes. Thank you in advance, I've already gotten a plethora of help here already and look forward to learning more.

[butlersrangers]

'Flatlander15' - I think the reason your stock is so light in color is because it is Italian walnut. In 1899, there was a shortage of cured American black walnut stock blanks for Springfield production.

The New York firm of Louis Windmuller and Roelker were contracted to supply 33,000 stocks of Italian walnut. These stocks will usually have 'Cartouche' dates of 1899 to 1901.

This wood is a lighter yellow color, than black walnut, and has distinctive grain, (often showing 'tiger stripe').

I have come to like it. But, interestingly, some military units appear to have stained or dyed these stocks and hand-guards, for uniformity in the 'ranks'.

In regard to your stock's Forearm: I would suggest you cut off some of the damaged 'Schnabel' tip, salvage the wood plug, and wood glue it into the (lightening) channel. Then reshape the wood, in front of the barrel-band, to look like a carbine stock tip.

Photos showing: re-shaped stock tip, Italian walnut 'tiger-stripe', and contrast of Italian and black walnut.

[psteinmayer]

I agree with Butlersrangers... but I'll add this: I'd avoid CA (CynoAcrylic, or Super Glues)! CA adhesives can actually expand in the wood grain as they cure and cause more damage than you are trying to repair. We use them in model building because they penetrate the grain structure so well... but with that penetration, also comes expansion.

I would go to a wood workers supply store and purchase a good two-part structural epoxy, one that has a slow cure (12 hours or more). If you are going to repair, rather than shorten as Butlers stated, then make some wedges out of popsicle sticks, and use them to hold the crack open slightly (not too much as you don't want to expand the crack further). Then, force the epoxy into the crack, use rubber bands to hold the crack closed, and wipe off the excess. Then... leave it sit for a couple days!!! If the stock has been heavily oiled, then you may need to use Acetone to clean out the crack before epoxying it.

There's a thread here which shows my repair of the crack in the wrist of my 1898: http://www.kragcollectorsassociation.org/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1428247357

[E Scott]

I am new here, but I do a lot of work with wood. If you can do a really good job of degreasing the stock and can figure a way to clamp the stock together to minimize the visibility of the cracks you can float a super thin cyanoacrylate into the cracks and make them nearly invisible. the repair will be stronger than the parent wood.





The last knife has black palm on it and I have seldom made a knife with it that did not have a crack or flaw that need to be repaired. Including this one.

[Flatlander15]

Thank you all! Those knives are beautiful by the way. I'm going to hit the stock with Citristrip today, and fill the crack with epoxy as suggested after its dry.

Does it matter what kind of two part epoxy? The reason I ask is here in Northern lower MI there are no dedicated woodworking shops, closest I get is Lowes, Home Depot, and Hobby Lobby.

[Hoot]

Another trick is to "drag" the glue/epoxy into the crack with dental floss or similar. Plus, you get a pleasing minty smell! ;)

[Flatlander15]

Ok so today I sprayed the stock with Citrispray, let it sit an hour and wiped it off. It took some of the finish off, but not much. Resprayed, let sit three hours, wiped down and rinsed in hot water, scrubbed with a blue non scratch scouring pad. The bathtub water was brown.

After ten-fifteen minutes of light scrubbing it was apparent the stock wasn't going to lose anymore of the finish. I hit it with my wifes hair dryer. All I can say is WOW! That stuff is truly amazing. Bone dry wood, ready to soak up leather dye tomorrow. All of the dents, dings, and scratches are intact, just how I wanted it.

I got some epoxy today and will fill the cracks tomorrow before dying per the wedge method. I will post pictures of the process as I go. Thanks again to all who helped.

[psteinmayer]

Sounds like you're well on your way! I think you'll find that the repair will far outlast you or I... LOL!

Keep us posted with pictures!

[Flatlander15]

Here she is after two coats of Fiebings dark brown leather dye and one coat of truoil. I love it!

Now the stock matches the rest of the gun, and looks its age of 119. The epoxy worked wonderfully, I just had to sand it a bit before dying. It's still apparent that there is a crack there if you are looking for it but the dye also makes it seem like a period repair. The lighting makes it look rather blah but in person it's much nicer, not flat brown. Thanks again for the suggestions.

[psteinmayer]

Looking great!!! Awesome job buddy!