The stock on my model 1898 Krag which has been sporterized sometime probably in the 30's is looking very dark. I'd like to clean off the old finish and rejuvenate it a bit. There is also a crack forming that I may need to do something about too.
What would you recommend for removing the old finish? I've used Krud Kutter in the past on an old Remington 22 and it stripped off the old finish just fine, and refinished easily but it didn't need any repairs or extensive wood work.
Is there something else you'd recommend, or can you steer me to a video?
Refinishing a Sporterized Krag Stock
- butlersrangers
- Posts: 9908
- Joined: Wed Oct 07, 2009 11:35 pm
- Location: Below the Bridge, Michigan
Re: Refinishing a Sporterized Krag Stock
'Texas10' - Some photos would give a better idea of what you are dealing with on this stock.
I've cleaned up a few military stocks with terrible 'gloppy' varnish, paint, and True-Oil finishes.
On these stocks, I used Formby's 'furniture stripper' gel (or a similar generic).
Small green 'scotch-brite' pads (cleaning-patch size) were used to apply the stripper, while lightly 'sanding' the old finish with the grain. Old 'T'-shirt rag is used to frequently clean off slop and check progress. Green pads are changed often, as they load up with dissolved finish.
If done judiciously, the finish is removed, sharp edges are preserved, the wood surface has a nice sheen and the pores are pleasantly filled. The wood may need some stain, but, will also accept new coats of linseed oil.
(p.s. - Do any crack repair after stripping and before stain & linseed oil).
I've cleaned up a few military stocks with terrible 'gloppy' varnish, paint, and True-Oil finishes.
On these stocks, I used Formby's 'furniture stripper' gel (or a similar generic).
Small green 'scotch-brite' pads (cleaning-patch size) were used to apply the stripper, while lightly 'sanding' the old finish with the grain. Old 'T'-shirt rag is used to frequently clean off slop and check progress. Green pads are changed often, as they load up with dissolved finish.
If done judiciously, the finish is removed, sharp edges are preserved, the wood surface has a nice sheen and the pores are pleasantly filled. The wood may need some stain, but, will also accept new coats of linseed oil.
(p.s. - Do any crack repair after stripping and before stain & linseed oil).
Re: Refinishing a Sporterized Krag Stock
Here are some photos of the stock. There seems to be several raised letters, I imagine they were stamps that raised as the compressed wood expanded, perhaps due to finish added to the stock.
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Last edited by Texas10 on Mon Jan 25, 2021 8:04 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Refinishing a Sporterized Krag Stock
More photos of my model 1898 Krag
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- butlersrangers
- Posts: 9908
- Joined: Wed Oct 07, 2009 11:35 pm
- Location: Below the Bridge, Michigan
Re: Refinishing a Sporterized Krag Stock
That's a neat adaptation of an original Krag stock. Some wood was 'spliced in' to create the pistol-grip and higher comb.
Your posted photos are not close enough to reveal a developing 'crack'.
Any chance that what you are seeing is a seam between original and added wood?
p.s. I kind of like the wood color in your photos.
Your posted photos are not close enough to reveal a developing 'crack'.
Any chance that what you are seeing is a seam between original and added wood?
p.s. I kind of like the wood color in your photos.
Re: Refinishing a Sporterized Krag Stock
Image 2691 shows the crack starting at the corner of the joint between the original stock wood and the piece spliced in to create the pistol grip.
Behind the trigger guard relief there are the letters G and W
On the left side where a cartouche would normally be the letters AWJ or possible a Delta and letters WJ are visible in strong sunlight.
Under the forearm grip there is a modified triangle with a letter A inside that is engraved in the wood (image 2688)
Behind the trigger guard relief there are the letters G and W
On the left side where a cartouche would normally be the letters AWJ or possible a Delta and letters WJ are visible in strong sunlight.
Under the forearm grip there is a modified triangle with a letter A inside that is engraved in the wood (image 2688)
Re: Refinishing a Sporterized Krag Stock
Regarding the two holes bored into the butt of the stock, is one of those for an original cleaning kit? If so, what is the other for?
- butlersrangers
- Posts: 9908
- Joined: Wed Oct 07, 2009 11:35 pm
- Location: Below the Bridge, Michigan
Re: Refinishing a Sporterized Krag Stock
'Texas10' - The top butt-recess was accessible, through a 'trap-door' in the original metal butt-plate.
It would have contained a nickel-plated oil bottle (about the size of a .30-4 cartridge) and three cleaning-rod sections.
The large hole, below the top one, was always covered by the original butt-plate and was bored at S.A. to lighten the stock.
The small "j.w." initials, behind the trigger-guard, were likely those of a Springfield sub-inspector.
The other marks you mentioned could be 'the personal mark' of a civilian gunsmith and the initials of an owner.
It would have contained a nickel-plated oil bottle (about the size of a .30-4 cartridge) and three cleaning-rod sections.
The large hole, below the top one, was always covered by the original butt-plate and was bored at S.A. to lighten the stock.
The small "j.w." initials, behind the trigger-guard, were likely those of a Springfield sub-inspector.
The other marks you mentioned could be 'the personal mark' of a civilian gunsmith and the initials of an owner.
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- Butt left.jpg (56.83 KiB) Viewed 2883 times
- butlersrangers
- Posts: 9908
- Joined: Wed Oct 07, 2009 11:35 pm
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Re: Refinishing a Sporterized Krag Stock
View of original Krag butt-plate:
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Re: Refinishing a Sporterized Krag Stock
My many thanks for that great information. I've begun stripping the old finish, and have noticed that the glued in piece that forms the pistol grip has gaps that I can slide a .002 shim into leading me to believe that the century old glue has deteriorated. This piece was dove tailed into the stock, and therefore likely impossible to remove assuming its possible to soften the glue using denatured alcohol. Any suggestions?
Same goes with the very nice piece of wood forming the upper comb. Held in with screws capped by what looks like ivory, I am thinking of pulling the caps and removing it prior to gluing it back in. Looks like getting some faux ivory is not a problem should I decide to return it to original.
Lastly I would like to sharpen up the checkering. I've not done any checkering work, but I can buy a set of tools for about $130 directly from Gunline tools, and would be an opportunity to learn some new skills given that this Krag has no collectors value.
Any and all opinions are welcome.
Same goes with the very nice piece of wood forming the upper comb. Held in with screws capped by what looks like ivory, I am thinking of pulling the caps and removing it prior to gluing it back in. Looks like getting some faux ivory is not a problem should I decide to return it to original.
Lastly I would like to sharpen up the checkering. I've not done any checkering work, but I can buy a set of tools for about $130 directly from Gunline tools, and would be an opportunity to learn some new skills given that this Krag has no collectors value.
Any and all opinions are welcome.