It says for Krag but I can not see how you would get it past the front sight base. Maybe it does but the optical collusion does not show it? let us know when you get it.
FredC wrote: ↑Fri Feb 12, 2021 7:22 pmIt says for Krag but I can not see how you would get it past the front sight base. . .
Look closer. The band (A) is split, likely held together after placement by a solid collar (B). Note it is "FOR USE WITH MANNLICHER, KRAG TYPE STOCKS" (Two types sometimes in need of a band for robust swivel installation and sling use) - not that it is specifically for the U.S. Krag. Fit will depend on barrel diameter at the point of placement. The package is marked "700-725 . . . Be sure to match barrel diameter to band size."
FWIW - .750" is the diameter of a Krag barrel, approximately, two inches in front of the location of the forward edge of a Krag rifle and an 1899 carbine barrel-band.
'New old stock' Uncle Mike's barrel-band arrived today.
I gave it a try on a 30" Krag rifle barrel. The 'center' of the NOS commercial band ended up 2 inches from the center of the 'issue' barrel-band.
The package allows a couple of installation possibilities on a sportered rifle. I like how the 'split-ring' is held 'closed' by a small round collar, that is wedged in place by an anchor screw.
Well, the kit goes into my parts box for possible use on a future project. I envision just using the barrel-band, its small locking-collar, and a simple 'slotted' forearm-screw to lock everything in place.
(BTW - Part 'E' was replaced by QD-stud with a long threaded-shank).
Attachments
a UM barrel-band 1.jpg (127.36 KiB) Viewed 2427 times
a UM barrel-band 2.jpg (162.81 KiB) Viewed 2427 times
a UM barrel-band 0.jpg (217.23 KiB) Viewed 2427 times
That's a great solution to a topic that has been mentioned on the forum many times..."How to secure the forward part of the barrel to a cut down/sporterized stock without the use of a Springfield made Krag barrel band."
Last edited by Local Boy on Fri Feb 26, 2021 6:12 am, edited 1 time in total.
I got one of the Uncle Mikes barrel bands a couple of weeks ago. Spent some time looking at it and so far have no plan on how to install it. Seems like there should be an escutcheon (I like that word but can not remember how to spell it without looking it up) involved. BR, if you are someone else figures out how to install it let me know. Instructions mentioned a gunsmith would have the special tools for the job, too bad they did not list or draw the tools needed.
The seller got back from vacation now so there should be a few more available.
Another member mentioned welding a nut to the bottom of the barrel, a year ago I would have told you I thought it was a bad idea, but having worked with a NEF 45/70 recently with its welded locking lug, maybe there is a way to safely do this for an experienced welder or gunsmith. If I were to go that route I would weld on a lug then drill it and tap it afterwards to get it dead on center.
Fred: The Uncle Mike's instructions rival some that have come from China.
Some of the parts make no sense or are intended for cosmetic appearance, if the band is used to add a quick-detachable sling-swivel, (British Express-Rifle Style), out on the naked barrel.
I think they changed some parts, without updating the instructions or the kit.
Still, If someone had a sporter stock on their Krag, that needed a barrel-band and detachable swivel, this can work.
I would put the split-band on the barrel, lock the band from spreading with the small ring, and push this assembly to where it stops on the barrel taper.
Then, I would paint the band's extension (that forms the inside-thread), with some 'Prussian Blue' borrowed from Fred.
Positioning the barreled/action on the stock will leave a blue mark. This is where a stepped-hole will be drilled.
A larger hole at the inside of the barrel-channel to accept the extended part of the barrel-band.
A smaller diameter hole is extended through the stock to accept the threaded-shank of the sling-swivel stud, which screws into the band's extension.
To finish the job, some stock wood should be removed, on the inside of the barrel-channel, to provide clearance for the barrel-band.
The threaded-shank is carefully cut to length, so it can be tightened and still has adequate thread engagement.
A small washer (escutcheon) can be placed on the threaded-shank to somewhat protect the wood.
.... oh, go find a large 'finish' nail, that will fit through the hole of the detachable-swivel stud. This is your special Gun Smith Tool, used to tighten the stud.