Krag Collectors Association Forum

]I recently was given a sporterized Krag from a friend who inherited it from his uncle. He gave it to me for parts because he was afraid to shoot it as it has so many holes in the receiver. I tried to convince him it was safe and fired it but he said take it ,he didn't trust it. Anyway here it is. His uncle spent some coin rebluing it, put on a new commercial barrel and receiver sights. The question is does anyone have any idea what kind of scope mount could have been on it? I need something to cover up the holes and would prefer a mount that would be above the receiver and not to the left.

]

'Polska' - Nice Gift from a Friend!

I am not aware of a scope mount that uses that hole combination. Possibly, there was a mistake and only two of the holes were used?

I suggest you buy an inexpensive Weaver #2 mount-base (circled).

Although designed to be held with four screws, if two holes line up, it will hide the blemishes and have adequate strength to add a Weaver side-mount, later, if desired.

BTW - Your receiver sight is the 'no-drill' Pacific K2. A nice sight and pretty rare with the micrometer adjustment knobs.

Thanks for the info and I'll try the Weaver. I would just use the iron sights but can't get pass those butcher holes on the side. Not to speak ill of the dead, but what did he use? A hand drill.

Fence Post Auger!

Duplicate looking for a delete button. Whoops!

I can do respectable work with a fence post auger, just planted 3 posts last week. Even drilled and tapped them for mounting ceramic electric fence insulators. Used a hand drill and then a 1/2 ratchet for driving the 3/8-16 tap.

Going to guess he used a economy drill press. Amateur technique without spot drilling or use of a fixture with drill bushings. Krags can have a quite hard skin from case hardening and a drill will want to skate around when starting. The grinding marks were probably to cover up bad/misplaced starting holes. The holes are not in the barrel thread or locking lug areas so no real concern about the strength or safety of the receiver.

I am with Br on the 2 screws being plenty strong for mounting a scope if you can find 2 that match a commercial mount. The holes are a good distance apart and will give good stability if they draw the mount up flush with the receiver.

If a Weaver #2 side-mount base matches the spacing of two of the drilled & tapped holes, I would put a 'glob' of J.B. Weld (glue) on the ground receiver area.
This would fill some of the blemish and solidly 'bed' the base block to a more regular receiver contour. (Degrease the area of the receiver where the J.B. Weld should adhere).

I would smear a temporary coat of Vaseline on the back of the mount-base and front screw, so these parts are not 'glued' to the receiver, while the glue is hardening.

(If the O.P. accurately measures the distance between the drilled & tapped holes on his receiver, I will check my Weaver '#2 mount base' for screw-hole distances).

It would be nice to have a nothing to add to the previous post but I give it a thumbs up for content button.

Not wanting any holes drilled in my receiver I bought a scout scope base some time back goes into the rears sight screw holes and mount forward of the bolt somewhat/
Steve

I have a Norwegian sporter that someone drilled and tapped for a side mount [not a Weaver] I Locktited some screws in the holes and then d&t for a Weaver base. Worked good.