Which brass is better Hornady or Reminton

[Just_Joe]

Today I start reloading. Which brass is better Hornady or Remington.

My second question is
How often are you supposed to clean reloading dies for both Rifle and Pistol?

[Kerz]

Just Joe
I really don't have a preference. I have Hornady and Winchester. Both have only be reloaded a few times each. No problems with either.

These are 100+ year old battle rifles and thus the accuracy is so-so. Some are quite accurate while others wont hit a wash tub at 50 yds.
Case durability is certainly another issue and one that I don't have much experience because of limited reloads. There will be other members who will respond with excellent advice.

Vic

[Knute1]

The last time I bought brass, Hornady was the most available. That would make them the best for me. There was a time brass was hard to obtain.

[Kerz]

That's for dang sure! When I got my first Krag a few years ago there wasn't any new 30-40 brass available. I started reloading with .303 brass.
Vic

[Baltimoreed]

I still use .303 for my Krag scout but use the real .30-40 for my Krag Constabulary. The headspace or chambers are different enough that the only way I can use my handloads in both rifles is to full length resize them which is overworking the brass. I just neck size each with a .308 Winchester sizer die and using .303 for one and .30-40 for the other keeps it simple. Using the same load otherwise. Havent done a whole lot of load development yet. The steel in my yard doesnt stand a chance so they cant be too bad.

[FredC]

I have cut Graf's and Winchester brass in half and the thickness along the length varies some. Probably no difference in ballistics though. The weight variation of a batch of brass would be more important as this will directly affect the volume of the case and pressure. Thinking theoretically the best brass would have the least tolerance in weight.

I have never heard of anyone here trimming 30/40 brass. If it never is an issue it may because Krags do not operate at the higher pressures of other rifles.
I am thinking that having all your brass segregated as to weight and or manufacturer is more important than who made it.

[Culpeper]

I am a R-P and Winchester guy. For no particular reason beyond that is the ammo I bought over the years and retained the brass. I only shoot the Win stuff in my M1895 Musket and the R-P in the Krags. Simple logistics because I have three or four boxes of Win brass and the rest is Remington.

I can't speak to the number of reloadings since my case are only on their third rotation. PSteinmayer and Butlersrangers can address the brass quality issue. I do believe there was a post in the last month or so about that.

The bottom line is I have never had any brass issues. They are both good stuff. Well. One issue. I don't have enough to sustain a .30-40 Gatling gun for fifteen minutes of constant firing. :o

[RichWIS]

No preferance, have Win and Graf. Used the Graf to form 30/40AI, and Win in an old sporter I had. The Win has had a lot of loadings and some I tried to reform for the AI split at the neck/shoulder junction. Found it best to anneal before forming. Some of the standard brass has been reloaded 8-10 times but I anneal every sixth loading.

[butlersrangers]

Today, is a good day, for annealing brass!

[Cat Man]

My experience for many years has been with a hoarded stash of vintage commercial brass. I have found the old Remington brass seemed a bit softer than others. It worked into the dies with less effort and did not require annelling. Lasted a long time. Other vintage like Winchester of various years seems a bit harder, tended to work harden sooner and required annelling to get the longest life. I have not tried the Hornaday but would like to soon.