Howdy all! Been away for a little while. As the title states, the ultimate gut wrenching question.
In my search for a nice 1896 long rifle, I came into possession of one that seems to fit the bill. Very sharp wrist and inspector cartouches, very pleasant and uniform graying of the metal, and the bore was described as bright and shiny with strong rifling.
All of these were true, except the latter. The bore is frosted and there are areas of more significant chipping and pitting throughout the bore.
Not talking questions of value, am I better off trying to rebarrel could find an original (somehow)/go the CMP route, or should I cut my losses and try to find a new 1896 for a nicer bore? I understand these aren’t like finding 03A3 new old stock barrels by the dozens, so I’m curious if anyone else has gone this route and what considerations you would pose?
(On a side note, if anyone has a lead on a very nice 1896, I’m all for it!)
Thank you as always, I love this community and will be glad to contribute in ways other than my grumbling.
-Michael
Model 1896: To rebarrel or not to rebarrel?
- mibecker03
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- butlersrangers
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Re: Model 1896: To rebarrel or not to rebarrel?
Michael, have you tried firing the current barrel using .30-40 ammo, with jacketed bullets?
This is a useful thing to do before giving up on an original Krag barrel.
Many of us have been pleased and amazed at the decent performance of a 'sketchy' looking Krag barrel.
We'd sure enjoy seeing some photos of the exterior of your model 1896 Krag!
This is a useful thing to do before giving up on an original Krag barrel.
Many of us have been pleased and amazed at the decent performance of a 'sketchy' looking Krag barrel.
We'd sure enjoy seeing some photos of the exterior of your model 1896 Krag!
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Re: Model 1896: To rebarrel or not to rebarrel?
As Butlers said, Try shooting it. I have found many pitted barrels on mil surp rifles shoot quite well if the rifling is still relatively intact. It doesn't have to be strong and sharp to capture and spin the bullet. If you run a patch down the barrel and it shreds it up because of bad pitting, no amount of rifling will make that a good shooting barrel. But, from what you said, you might be OK. I'm not a big fan of re-barreling, although many people do that. I'd rather you spend the time and money finding a nice Model 1896 that still has a good bore that you'll be happy with. You'll never be sorry having an original that increases in value and allows you to enjoy the history of that rifle with each shot.
Keep us informed. Check the rifling pattern and let us know. Welcome!
Keep us informed. Check the rifling pattern and let us know. Welcome!
- mibecker03
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- Joined: Sat Jan 30, 2021 9:06 pm
Re: Model 1896: To rebarrel or not to rebarrel?
In creating this post, I figured these were the sentiments that would be expressed. I think I just needed the assurance to bide the time and look for a sharp bore in a different example. *patience is a damned thing!*
With the poor weather, I haven’t fired any rounds through that rifle quite yet. But I’ll report back my findings once I’m able to get to our outdoor range when there isn’t feet of snow in my way.
I’ll dig the rifle out sometime this weekend and snap a few pictures to share! It really is a great representative piece.
With the poor weather, I haven’t fired any rounds through that rifle quite yet. But I’ll report back my findings once I’m able to get to our outdoor range when there isn’t feet of snow in my way.
I’ll dig the rifle out sometime this weekend and snap a few pictures to share! It really is a great representative piece.
- Dick Hosmer
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Re: Model 1896: To rebarrel or not to rebarrel?
Yes, re-barreling would be the last step for me, as well. And to dump it without shooting makes no sense at all - it might be fine.
Re: Model 1896: To rebarrel or not to rebarrel?
I am not opposed to reproduction stocks and new barrels — it’s an inevitable solution most will have to accept over the coming years (also lack of maintenance). Don’t get me wrong, I love an original in great condition.
BR — I have often seen that photo — its a modern photo of someone in kit, correct? Is that OCB plywood.
BR — I have often seen that photo — its a modern photo of someone in kit, correct? Is that OCB plywood.
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Re: Model 1896: To rebarrel or not to rebarrel?
My first Krag would spray, and I DO MEAN SPRAY jacketed bullets all oover a 24 X 36 inch sheet at 50 yards. I went to .312 cast and the rifle was shooting close to 1" groups at 100 yards. True Story.
The barrel was fine. Not that I am recommending it, because I am not, but that rifle would shoot .312 jacketed with no signs of pressure.
The barrel was fine. Not that I am recommending it, because I am not, but that rifle would shoot .312 jacketed with no signs of pressure.
- butlersrangers
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Re: Model 1896: To rebarrel or not to rebarrel?
'POHO' - The photo, you question, is an original WW1 period image. The Krag was widely used at U.S. Training Camps during preparation for the Great War.
(p.s. - Plywood has been around for a very long time).
IMO - The demands of a 'Competitive Match Shooter' and those of a collector/hobbyist/casual shooter can be quite different.
In my experience, a Krag with a dark & rough looking bore may still be an accurate rifle. It can be shot, yet maintains its interest and resale value to another collector.
A Krag that has been rebuilt with a custom barrel and new stock, as a nice "Match Rifle", has a more limited market. Alteration is a 'turn-off' to many gun fanciers.
When a gun's originality is gone, the 'resale value', interest, and demand can be shockingly low and nowhere near the cash invested in restoration efforts.
There are lots of messed-up and poorly altered Krags around, that are good candidates for re-building into a Match Rifle with a 'Criterion' barrel and new wood.
It seems a shame to sacrifice a decent complete and original Krag, to accomplish the same end.
BTW - I do appreciate an excellent rifle bore. They are a lot easier and more gratifying to clean!
(p.s. - Plywood has been around for a very long time).
IMO - The demands of a 'Competitive Match Shooter' and those of a collector/hobbyist/casual shooter can be quite different.
In my experience, a Krag with a dark & rough looking bore may still be an accurate rifle. It can be shot, yet maintains its interest and resale value to another collector.
A Krag that has been rebuilt with a custom barrel and new stock, as a nice "Match Rifle", has a more limited market. Alteration is a 'turn-off' to many gun fanciers.
When a gun's originality is gone, the 'resale value', interest, and demand can be shockingly low and nowhere near the cash invested in restoration efforts.
There are lots of messed-up and poorly altered Krags around, that are good candidates for re-building into a Match Rifle with a 'Criterion' barrel and new wood.
It seems a shame to sacrifice a decent complete and original Krag, to accomplish the same end.
BTW - I do appreciate an excellent rifle bore. They are a lot easier and more gratifying to clean!
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Re: Model 1896: To rebarrel or not to rebarrel?
I have several Krags with perfectly fine bores that shoot perfectly well and would hold their own (with a good marksman) in any vintage rifle match.
- psteinmayer
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Re: Model 1896: To rebarrel or not to rebarrel?
I know a few who have rebarrelled and been happy with the results. One even medals with his Krag at Perry. That said, the only reason I would consider it is if the barrel were damaged... or if I was returning a cut-down sporter to full military "As Issued" condition! My 1898 is original and the only thing I've replaced was the 1902 rear sight... and the reason for THAT is because I wanted to alter the Sgt Peep to make match shooting a little easier (that peep is painfully tiny at 0.04 dia, making the sights nearly impossible to use. My altered peep is 0.1 dia). However, I retained the original sight to put back on when I retire this Krag from match shooting. And speaking of WW1, as many of you know, my "Match" 1898 is a WW1 France rear echelon veteran too! BTW, I shoot jacketed .308 dia 220 gr RN bullets out of her and she does just fine at 200 yards.