Yep I believe you’re correct! It should be underneath.
Me thinks you found the feed issue problem!
1898 Rifle project
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MooseNugget
- Posts: 150
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Re: 1898 Rifle project
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butlersrangers
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- Location: Below the Bridge, Michigan
Re: 1898 Rifle project
RickG's carrier-arm spring was incorrectly installed. Reassemble it correctly and put a dab of grease on the 'roller' shaped tip.
MooseNugget - The little 'spring-door cover' on your hinge-pin is bent. I think that it could be 'brass hammered' back into shape.
MooseNugget - The little 'spring-door cover' on your hinge-pin is bent. I think that it could be 'brass hammered' back into shape.
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butlersrangers
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Re: 1898 Rifle project
I bought an odd clamp at a rummage sale, today, and used it to disassemble a Krag magazine-gate assembly.
Usually, I just use my awesome grip strength to accomplish this task!
Instructional photos attached:
Usually, I just use my awesome grip strength to accomplish this task!
Instructional photos attached:
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Re: 1898 Rifle project
So as there is no pressure do i need to put clamps or just tap out the pin. Put the end of the spring under the roller and then tap the pin back in?
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MooseNugget
- Posts: 150
- Joined: Wed Jan 25, 2023 6:22 pm
Re: 1898 Rifle project
Thanks BR I’ll look into beating that cover back into shape!
RickyG you can use super awesome grip strength like BR or use a clamp to help align the parts so the pin can be installed.
Below is a pic of the type of clamp I use:
RickyG you can use super awesome grip strength like BR or use a clamp to help align the parts so the pin can be installed.
Below is a pic of the type of clamp I use:
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Last edited by MooseNugget on Sun Aug 06, 2023 3:11 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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butlersrangers
- Posts: 9881
- Joined: Wed Oct 07, 2009 11:35 pm
- Location: Below the Bridge, Michigan
Re: 1898 Rifle project
RickyG - Since you have little or no spring pressure, your hinge pin should come out relatively easy.
Start by taking your barreled action out of the stock, then remove the left side-plate.
The front of the magazine-gate hinge-pin has a flat 'cover' that locks it in place.
Use a small thin screwdriver to slightly lift this springy-cover, while rotating the hinge-pin, by the tab at the front tip.
Once the hinge-pin rotates, grasp your action with your left hand, pressing the magazine-gate inward.
With your right thumb & forefinger, grasp the hinge-pin by the cover and slightly rotate the pin, back and forth, while pulling it forward.
If the pin resists moving forward, lightly tap the exposed rear-tip of the hinge-pin, with a brass punch and small mallet.
It should not take great force to start the pin forward. Avoid distorting the rear tip of the hinge pin.
Once the hinge pin is removed, all the magazine mechanism parts can be easily taken out and cleaned.
Leave the 'follower-carrier arm' parts together, as a sub-assembly. Clean, de-grease, and wipe all parts with an oily cloth to leave a light film.
I use a pipe-cleaner with solvent to clean out the long hinge-pin tube, at the bottom of the magazine-gate.
I run the hinge-pin through the length of this hole, to clean out any corrosion and old dried cosmoline.
I take a small fine file, and smooth, any nicks and burrs that have formed on the hinge-pin.
I give the pin a light polish with fine steel-wool or an oily piece of 'scotch-brite' pad.
I 'dress' the rear tip of the hinge-pin with a small file to ensure it is not 'mushroomed'.
When reassembling, I try the magazine-gate and hinge-pin on the receiver, (without other parts), to make sure the pin is straight and the hinge does not bind.
When putting everything back together a clamp is not needed, if you have relatively strong grip strength.
If all parts are properly in position, there is considerable outward spring pressure.
If holes are in alignment, the hinge-pin can be rotated & wiggled into place.
It should not be hammered into position; this can bend the hinge-pin.
Light taps with a plastic mallet, for 'final seating' of the pin, should be OK.
(A clamp does make things easier and can be improvised from an appropriate size "C" clamp.
Wrap the clamp's contacting surfaces with masking tape to prevent scratching the magazine-gate and receiver).
Leave the left side-plate off of the receiver, while installing the magazine-gate.
The 'arched' spring, that tensions the magazine-gate and also powers the follower assembly, should have a dab of light grease put on the working surfaces of both ends, as the spring is put in its channel on the receiver.
The middle of the 'arch' has a shallow groove that faces outward. Put a dab of grease there, too.
This part of the spring makes contact with the inner edges of the magazine-gate, toward the bottom, where it hinges.
Start by taking your barreled action out of the stock, then remove the left side-plate.
The front of the magazine-gate hinge-pin has a flat 'cover' that locks it in place.
Use a small thin screwdriver to slightly lift this springy-cover, while rotating the hinge-pin, by the tab at the front tip.
Once the hinge-pin rotates, grasp your action with your left hand, pressing the magazine-gate inward.
With your right thumb & forefinger, grasp the hinge-pin by the cover and slightly rotate the pin, back and forth, while pulling it forward.
If the pin resists moving forward, lightly tap the exposed rear-tip of the hinge-pin, with a brass punch and small mallet.
It should not take great force to start the pin forward. Avoid distorting the rear tip of the hinge pin.
Once the hinge pin is removed, all the magazine mechanism parts can be easily taken out and cleaned.
Leave the 'follower-carrier arm' parts together, as a sub-assembly. Clean, de-grease, and wipe all parts with an oily cloth to leave a light film.
I use a pipe-cleaner with solvent to clean out the long hinge-pin tube, at the bottom of the magazine-gate.
I run the hinge-pin through the length of this hole, to clean out any corrosion and old dried cosmoline.
I take a small fine file, and smooth, any nicks and burrs that have formed on the hinge-pin.
I give the pin a light polish with fine steel-wool or an oily piece of 'scotch-brite' pad.
I 'dress' the rear tip of the hinge-pin with a small file to ensure it is not 'mushroomed'.
When reassembling, I try the magazine-gate and hinge-pin on the receiver, (without other parts), to make sure the pin is straight and the hinge does not bind.
When putting everything back together a clamp is not needed, if you have relatively strong grip strength.
If all parts are properly in position, there is considerable outward spring pressure.
If holes are in alignment, the hinge-pin can be rotated & wiggled into place.
It should not be hammered into position; this can bend the hinge-pin.
Light taps with a plastic mallet, for 'final seating' of the pin, should be OK.
(A clamp does make things easier and can be improvised from an appropriate size "C" clamp.
Wrap the clamp's contacting surfaces with masking tape to prevent scratching the magazine-gate and receiver).
Leave the left side-plate off of the receiver, while installing the magazine-gate.
The 'arched' spring, that tensions the magazine-gate and also powers the follower assembly, should have a dab of light grease put on the working surfaces of both ends, as the spring is put in its channel on the receiver.
The middle of the 'arch' has a shallow groove that faces outward. Put a dab of grease there, too.
This part of the spring makes contact with the inner edges of the magazine-gate, toward the bottom, where it hinges.
Re: 1898 Rifle project
Well thanks to several here, especially Mr Butts, the magazine is once again feeding like melted snail snot!
Finishing some clean up and waiting on some wood repair and ill get it back together, test fire and post up some photos.
Things are looking up. Still a lot of neglect damage to the rifle but I think its going to work into an decent shooting example of an 1898 rifle.
Be sure not to put the loading gate on upside down....be sure to follow me for more don't do tips n tricks.
Finishing some clean up and waiting on some wood repair and ill get it back together, test fire and post up some photos.
Things are looking up. Still a lot of neglect damage to the rifle but I think its going to work into an decent shooting example of an 1898 rifle.
Be sure not to put the loading gate on upside down....be sure to follow me for more don't do tips n tricks.
Re: 1898 Rifle project
Some more progress. Mostly oil, brass brush and a scuff pad. Some wrenching and waiting for some parts to arrive.
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Re: 1898 Rifle project
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Re: 1898 Rifle project
Got it to feed and fire. Wasn't going for accuracy just function. It functions again.... there's about 10 bucks in ammo gone. 
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