Good Morning All
I wanted to introduce myself and share my recent purchase from the CMP from their release of Krag rifles. I have multiple M1 Garands, 03’s and 1917’s but this is my first Krag.
Would appreciate any information or observations about this rifle. The serial number 460179 appears to be 1903 production and stock is stamped 1900.
Happy to post more detailed photos for analysis.
Looking forward to reading through archived posts to learn more about these rifles.
Thanks
Justin
First Krag- CMP US Model of 1898
Re: First Krag- CMP US Model of 1898
Photos attached
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psteinmayer
- Posts: 2763
- Joined: Tue Aug 30, 2011 2:31 am
Re: First Krag- CMP US Model of 1898
Good Morning Justin. Welcome to the forum, and to the wonderful world of Krags!
You've definitely come to the right place. Your Krag appears to be a pretty nice looking 98 with the 1902 rear sight. If the barrel is in good shape, it should be a good shooter! If the stock has a 1900 cartouche, then it's likely that it has been swapped with another rifle.
You've definitely come to the right place. Your Krag appears to be a pretty nice looking 98 with the 1902 rear sight. If the barrel is in good shape, it should be a good shooter! If the stock has a 1900 cartouche, then it's likely that it has been swapped with another rifle.
Re: First Krag- CMP US Model of 1898
That's a darn nice looking cartouche for being 120+ years old! It's nice to welcome more KCA visitors who are new Krag owners thanks to the great CMP! If anyone knows how great the CMP is and has been, it's Paul Steinmayer! Welcome!
Re: First Krag- CMP US Model of 1898
Thanks All
I have been busy the past week and have not had a chance to thoroughly inspect the bore, but it is gauged a “1” on the CMP tag. I had put a note on my order for a “good shooter”.
What’s a good process for initial cleaning of a rifle barrel of this age?
I have been busy the past week and have not had a chance to thoroughly inspect the bore, but it is gauged a “1” on the CMP tag. I had put a note on my order for a “good shooter”.
What’s a good process for initial cleaning of a rifle barrel of this age?
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butlersrangers
- Posts: 10559
- Joined: Wed Oct 07, 2009 11:35 pm
- Location: Below the Bridge, Michigan
Re: First Krag- CMP US Model of 1898
Welcome 'jcarr', to the KCA Forum. That is a promising model 1898 Krag.
Cleaning is a matter of the condition, not the age, of the barrel. I always start with Hoppe's #9 nitro-solvent and a bronze brush.
I favor a one-piece Outer's stainless steel rod, with bronze brushes, a brass 'patch-jag, and cotton flannel patches of convenient size.
Remove the Bolt and always clean from the breech.
After an initial 'look-see', you will have a better idea of exactly what you are dealing with. Hopefully, you will have a very nice bore.
However, it is likely that a lot of the CMP Krags will be Veteran Organization 'turn ins', that had an extensive diet of corrosive blanks.
The Krags I have purchased were always in civilian hands and I had a chance to examine the bore. I was fussy about bore condition.
Even if a Krag bore proved rougher, than I first thought, it still shot decently. Krag barrels are known to surprise!
Your wood looks nice. I would recommend a simple wipe down wood cleaning, with a 50/50 mix of Linseed oil with turpentine (or mineral spirits).
Apply, wipe, and rub, with rags of soft cotton, (like old jockey shorts or pajamas). Keep oily rags in a safe covered-container to avoid spontaneous combustion.
Krag handguards require a bit of care so they don't split. They are thin wood that is 120 years old and under the pressure of two spring-clips.
Don't pull the handguard off of the barrel or snap it back on!
It is more benign to remove the rear-sight, take the barreled-action out of the rifle stock, and simply slide the handguard toward the muzzle.
The handguard can be easily taken off near the muzzle, where the barrel diameter is reduced. Reverse the process to reinstall.
If the handguard is to be left off the Krag for a while, twist a Quarter into the rear spring-clip and twist a Penny or Nickel into the front clip.
This precaution serves to neutralize the inward pressure that the spring-clips put on the fragile handguard.
The Krag metal parts were given several types of finish which makes for a bit of a 'rainbow' of metal colors.
This often fools new Krag owners, who expect all the metal parts to be one homogeneous black/blue color.
The light surface rust on the exterior metal is best cleaned with #0000 steel or bronze wool, saturated with Hoppe's #9 solvent or Kerosene.
Heavier rust scale can be reduced by soaking with solvent and 'shaving' it with the edge of a copper penny or brushing it by hand with a bronze brush.
Don't ever use Naval Jelly or a wire wheel on gun parts!
I think your left side-plate has been covered with black paint. Your rifle will look better if the paint is removed.
A replacement 1898 side-plate doesn't cost much.
Replacing 'buggered' screws also improves appearance. Original and reproduction Krag screws can be purchased from S&S Firearms, Glendale, N.Y.
Cleaning is a matter of the condition, not the age, of the barrel. I always start with Hoppe's #9 nitro-solvent and a bronze brush.
I favor a one-piece Outer's stainless steel rod, with bronze brushes, a brass 'patch-jag, and cotton flannel patches of convenient size.
Remove the Bolt and always clean from the breech.
After an initial 'look-see', you will have a better idea of exactly what you are dealing with. Hopefully, you will have a very nice bore.
However, it is likely that a lot of the CMP Krags will be Veteran Organization 'turn ins', that had an extensive diet of corrosive blanks.
The Krags I have purchased were always in civilian hands and I had a chance to examine the bore. I was fussy about bore condition.
Even if a Krag bore proved rougher, than I first thought, it still shot decently. Krag barrels are known to surprise!
Your wood looks nice. I would recommend a simple wipe down wood cleaning, with a 50/50 mix of Linseed oil with turpentine (or mineral spirits).
Apply, wipe, and rub, with rags of soft cotton, (like old jockey shorts or pajamas). Keep oily rags in a safe covered-container to avoid spontaneous combustion.
Krag handguards require a bit of care so they don't split. They are thin wood that is 120 years old and under the pressure of two spring-clips.
Don't pull the handguard off of the barrel or snap it back on!
It is more benign to remove the rear-sight, take the barreled-action out of the rifle stock, and simply slide the handguard toward the muzzle.
The handguard can be easily taken off near the muzzle, where the barrel diameter is reduced. Reverse the process to reinstall.
If the handguard is to be left off the Krag for a while, twist a Quarter into the rear spring-clip and twist a Penny or Nickel into the front clip.
This precaution serves to neutralize the inward pressure that the spring-clips put on the fragile handguard.
The Krag metal parts were given several types of finish which makes for a bit of a 'rainbow' of metal colors.
This often fools new Krag owners, who expect all the metal parts to be one homogeneous black/blue color.
The light surface rust on the exterior metal is best cleaned with #0000 steel or bronze wool, saturated with Hoppe's #9 solvent or Kerosene.
Heavier rust scale can be reduced by soaking with solvent and 'shaving' it with the edge of a copper penny or brushing it by hand with a bronze brush.
Don't ever use Naval Jelly or a wire wheel on gun parts!
I think your left side-plate has been covered with black paint. Your rifle will look better if the paint is removed.
A replacement 1898 side-plate doesn't cost much.
Replacing 'buggered' screws also improves appearance. Original and reproduction Krag screws can be purchased from S&S Firearms, Glendale, N.Y.
Re: First Krag- CMP US Model of 1898
The CMP reading of "1" for the barrel is more reflective of wear at the point measured, not pitting or remaining rifling. With such a long history of potential corrosive ammunition use, Krags are better judged by bore examination directly. Running a patch through the barrel can give an idea of damaging pitting that can affect accuracy. If the patch runs through smooth, and there is still relatively good rifling, you should be good to go with adequate accuracy. It will be interesting to hear your examination results!