Neck only re-sizing dies

[RomeoJim]

I have been using my old RCBS full length re-rizing die with it backed off to re-size only down to just above the shoulder on my .30-40 cases (keeping them gun-specific of course) and it's been working fine. I see that Redding makes a .30-40 neck only re-sizing die and wondered this would give me an even longer case life. Anyone find any increase in case life by using a dedicated neck re-sizer like this or would it be a waste of money?

Thanks,

Jim

[Parashooter]

I have been using my old RCBS full length re-rizing die with it backed off to re-size only down to just above the shoulder on my .30-40 cases (keeping them gun-specific of course) and it's been working fine. I see that Redding makes a .30-40 neck only re-sizing die and wondered this would give me an even longer case life. Anyone find any increase in case life by using a dedicated neck re-sizer like this or would it be a waste of money?

Normally waste of money. Depends on relative die and chamber dimensions. Fat chamber, skinny die - upper body gets reduced before much neck is sized. Opposite situation, no problem with tapered-body cases like .30/40 or .303.


Size "smoked" case to view extraneous contact.

If you have a .308 Win. or 7.62x54R sizer, it can be adjusted to serve very well as a neck die for .30/40. Buying one could be significantly less costly than a "real" neck sizer.

LEE 308 WINCHESTER RGB 2 DIE SET S/H #2 (NOT INCLUDED)
Our Price:
$18.09

REDDING 30-40 KRAG NECK SIZE DIE SERIES C
Our Price:
$58.99

[FredC]

One thing that you can do to make your brass last longer is make sure that you are not over working the neck. A lot of dies reduce the neck close to .008 to .010 undersize then the "ball" on the decapper expands the neck back out to the proper size. If you were a machinist you could build a split adjustable lap and lap the neck area out on the die.
If you were to use Parashooter's idea of getting a 308W die and do not mind spending more money, get one that uses replaceable buttons in the neck. Then you can dial in the resizing done so the expander ball only needs to bring them up .002 to get a proper fit on the bullets.

[Parashooter]

Since a simple annealing regimen can nullify any effects of "over working" brass, with no expense beyond a little propane and a low-cost torch, there's little to be gained by purchasing more costly dies to avoid it.

HORNADY 308 WINCHESTER MATCH GRADE FL SIZER DIE (BUSHING)
Our Price:
$44.99

Hornady Match Grade Bushing .3XX Diameter
Our Price:
$17.99

[psteinmayer]

I just anneal the necks and use my good ole LEE Pacesetter 30-40 die backed out 1 turn. Been working good for me, and some of my brass is well into double-digits as far as reloads go (I'd estimate a few are more than 15 reloads and still going strong).

My method to anneal is to chuck the brass in my drill using my LEE trimmer case mandrel. Then, I heat the neck while spinning to heat evenly until the neck changes color. Then, I loosen the mandrel and allow the case to fall into a metal bowel to cool. Some quench in water, but I feel this to be unnecessary.

[RomeoJim]

Thanks to everyone for the good advice. I haven't heard of annealing the case necks of the brass coo prolong case life. How often s it recommended to anneal the cases? After every firing, prior to resizing?

Thanks,

Jim

[RomeoJim]

Forgot to add that I do have RCBS dies for .308 Win as well, perhaps annealing combined with neck sizing with the .308 die might be a good option for me.

I plan to shoot some of my new (but full length re-sized) Graf's cases this weekend up at our cabin.

Has anyone been using their Graf's cases yet and if so any comments? I'm hoping that fire forming some new cases will eliminate the tightness of the shoulder fit that still remains after full length re-sizing them in both of my Krags. If it resolves that issue I plan to buy more before their supply is depleted.

Thanks,

Jim

[Parashooter]

Anneal cases before you get neck splits. How often depends on your brass, dies, chamber, pressure, and annealing skill. Personally, I load in "batches" and anneal the whole batch after I get the first split. Some do it sooner to avoid losing any. When you think it's time, anneal before sizing.

Don't expect oversize cases to shrink on firing. Sometimes do, but much depends on peak pressure. If you want to bump the shoulders back a tad before loading, a .308 Win. sizer can be adjusted for that job as well - since .308 shoulder angle is very similar to .30/40. Ideally, we bump shoulders just enough to allow free chambering but no more. (This is easy to check on a Krag. We learn to feel cartridge fit when slowly closing the stripped bolt on a sized case.)

A more elegant approach is to reduce the height of yourshellholder, allowing cases to enter your .30/40 FL sizer farther. A few minutes rubbing the shellholder's upper surface on oiled 400-grit wet/dry paper can easily take off enough to make the difference. Lay paper on a hard, flat surface to keep things square.

[FredC]

Parashooter's suggestions are very good as usual, sometimes I do things just because I can and maybe a little overkill. I did modify my dad's nutcracker neck sizing die (Ideal I think) with a lap. That set up had a lot of extra steps and back then I had never heard of annealing the necks.

[psteinmayer]

When I first learned of annealing, I annealed every case I had. Likewise, I annealed some used brass I purchased (mostly because even though I was told it was once fired, I didn't trust that). After, I anneal when I feel they are getting a bit "thin in the skin." I still get an occasional neck crack, but that may be because some of my brass has been reloaded dozens of times!

I purchase 100 rounds of the Grafs and I'm keeping that in reserve for now... although I may load it up for the Roosevelt Match!