OK now the fun begins, forearm repair
OK now the fun begins, forearm repair
I received the replacement forearm from Larry Price today and it is very close to specs! I understand a rifle stock should be 46 inches long. Initial fit is pretty good. But some cutting will be needed. Before I start on epoxy, I need some help. I don't have a bayonet yet to measure proper mounting distance and clearance from the muzzle to the end of the stock. If I mess this length up. a bayonet won't fit. Could some one measure their rifle from muzzle to front edge of the upper barrel band? From scaling up photos I am estimating 3.25 inches. Also I have never seen a complete Krag rifle except pictures. I could use some advice on making and placing a retention pin for the middle sling band. What were these pins made of and how do they work without a spring? Posted over on GB forums as well. Thanks to all you experts. Wish me luck.
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Dick Hosmer
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- Joined: Sun Nov 20, 2005 4:11 pm
Re: OK now the fun begins, forearm repair
The pin can be made from a nail, using one approx. 1/16" in diameter, slightly rounded and polished on each end. Exact diameter is not critical, but alignment is!! The hole MUST be drilled in a press - clamp the new loose forend to a squared piece of 2x4, to assure a perfectly straight hole.
The pin works without a spring since the clamping band is tightened behind it - and the pin only wants to protrude about 1/32" each side.
You might want to locate the hole a tiny bit forward of where it will wind up, that way you can make any final length adjustment with simple sanding under the band before epoxying, rather than messing with the more complicated upper band tenon.
I don't have a rifle handy, but someone will surely give you the offset. IIRC, it is closer to 4" than 3.25", but I could be wrong - wait until you hear from someone who has actually measured it! Actually, you could probably be off as much as 1/16" or so - bayonets don't fit THAT precisely.
The pin works without a spring since the clamping band is tightened behind it - and the pin only wants to protrude about 1/32" each side.
You might want to locate the hole a tiny bit forward of where it will wind up, that way you can make any final length adjustment with simple sanding under the band before epoxying, rather than messing with the more complicated upper band tenon.
I don't have a rifle handy, but someone will surely give you the offset. IIRC, it is closer to 4" than 3.25", but I could be wrong - wait until you hear from someone who has actually measured it! Actually, you could probably be off as much as 1/16" or so - bayonets don't fit THAT precisely.
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Steve Scobee
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Re: OK now the fun begins, forearm repair
My 1898. Hope this helps.
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butlersrangers
- Posts: 9920
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- Location: Below the Bridge, Michigan
Re: OK now the fun begins, forearm repair
'Artemus' - From the muzzle to the front edge of the Krag front barrel-band is about 3 & 3/32 inches.
From the stock 'shoulder' (rear edge of rear-band) to front stock tip is about 17 & 3/8 inches.
A couple of pictures to help:
From the stock 'shoulder' (rear edge of rear-band) to front stock tip is about 17 & 3/8 inches.
A couple of pictures to help:
Re: OK now the fun begins, forearm repair
Gentlemen! Precisely what I needed! And I can't believe I was that close to the upper band measurement! I am stoked to see this through. I understand the pin now. Will save that for last before epoxy. Somehow I expected it to be brass.
Artemus
Artemus
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butlersrangers
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- Location: Below the Bridge, Michigan
Re: OK now the fun begins, forearm repair
Artemus - I revised my measurements slightly after carefully measuring four model 1898 Krag stocks.
From rear band shoulder to stock tip is 17 & 3/8 inches.
From stock tip to muzzle is 3 & 3/32 inches.
From rear band shoulder to stock tip is 17 & 3/8 inches.
From stock tip to muzzle is 3 & 3/32 inches.
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OnlineParashooter
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- Location: Kragmudgeon House, CT
Re: OK now the fun begins, forearm repair
That is all I need for now. Will certainly update when I am further along. Thank you to all who answered my call.
Re: OK now the fun begins, forearm repair
I'm pretty sure that's the rifle I watched on GB for months. If it is, I almost stopped in TX on my cross country move to buy it from the store. I even made an offer on it but we never came to an agreement on a price. If it's the same rifle then it looks a lot better than the pictures he posted on GB.
As for the fore end, I also bought one from Mr. Price and found that if you cut the remaining fore end from the original butt stock (at the lower barrel band) and just butt the repair piece with no additional cutting the length worked out perfectly. I used Mr. Price's pre-drilled holes and, with a drill press, made corresponding holes in my original stock. From here, I used threaded brass rod for the smaller holes and a hard wood dowel that was "threaded" with a Dremel bit to pin it all together. After it was glued (using Acra-Glas gel) and pinned, I put the action back in to maintain alignment and zip-ties on the fore end tip for upward pressure then used an extra long clap (from butt plate to the end of the for end) to provide tight compression and a solid joint. I wiped the excess epoxy and let it cure.
It was a fairly easy project but I will say this, only use Acra-Glas (gel is preferred) for your epoxy since it works the best by far. Other 2-part epoxies just don't seem to have the strength or hold up to the shock of repeated firing.
Stretch
As for the fore end, I also bought one from Mr. Price and found that if you cut the remaining fore end from the original butt stock (at the lower barrel band) and just butt the repair piece with no additional cutting the length worked out perfectly. I used Mr. Price's pre-drilled holes and, with a drill press, made corresponding holes in my original stock. From here, I used threaded brass rod for the smaller holes and a hard wood dowel that was "threaded" with a Dremel bit to pin it all together. After it was glued (using Acra-Glas gel) and pinned, I put the action back in to maintain alignment and zip-ties on the fore end tip for upward pressure then used an extra long clap (from butt plate to the end of the for end) to provide tight compression and a solid joint. I wiped the excess epoxy and let it cure.
It was a fairly easy project but I will say this, only use Acra-Glas (gel is preferred) for your epoxy since it works the best by far. Other 2-part epoxies just don't seem to have the strength or hold up to the shock of repeated firing.
Stretch
Re: OK now the fun begins, forearm repair
Stretch, this would be the same rifle from Texas I bet. Although the gentleman said he had purchased a large group of Krags from a collection. The bore may be the best part of the deal. Having accumulated some of the needed parts, it seemed a fun project. I was not prepared to go into the thousand dollar range for a complete specimen that I want to be a shooter. But I haven't gotten very far beyond mock-up and tear down. Using oak furniture 1/2 inch peg and treaded brass rods. There seems to be differing opinions on the type of epoxy to use and Larry says just glue it. I plan to use DEVCON. I am cutting the original remnant under the band off to butt it up as you said. Only one cut that way. Hope to get some time this weekend to make some headway.